JONATHAN Anderson knows a thing or two about design. Between creating viral moments with pigeon clutches and frog Wellipets to designing timeless staples with odd cuts or wacky prints, the Irish designer has captivated the fashion crowd at all angles and ages.
Culminating to the point that the SS25 show pulled in the most impressive crowd early on Sunday morning at the Old Billingsgate. From Anna Wintour, Michelle Dockery and Gugu Mbatha-Raw to today’s it-internet crowd with Madeline Argy and Mia Regan and swarming in to see what Anderson would do next.
Going back to basics was where he started and ended. Using only one fabric – silk satin; one yarn for knitwear – cashmere; one type of leather – calf; one type of embroidery – sequin; and one type of decoration – lace; the collection played with materiality through a lens that both magnified and reduced each within the confinement of restriction.
Zooming in and zooming out is how he phrased it. Giant knitted lattice weaves became mini dresses, leather skirts were perfectly rounded and suspended around the waist, silk satin bombers extended into puffy ball dresses, and cashmere transformed into sleeveless mini dresses too – it was a remarkably “girly” showing for a designer who embraces the unconventional.
But the tomboy wasn’t too far. Slouchy loose-fitting trousers, pops of argyle and sliced jumpers made an appearance too.
Embracing the city’s outlook on freedom for SS25 and harnessing it into an exercise of restraint with five fabric modifications in a 40-look collection, JW Anderson has us chucking out the excess next season and recalibrating our focus on less really being more.
by Imogen Clark