JIL Sander has been going through a lot of changes in the past few years. After Raf Simons’ departure in 2012, Jil Sander herself took over as the creative director once again, only to be soon succeeded by Rodolfo Paglialunga who lasted in the brand three years, his AW17 collection for the fashion house being the last. This season, we’ve witnessed a debut of the new creative directors, a husband-and-wife duo Luke and Lucie Meier.
Their SS18 show started minimal in black and white. But even on a minimal white shirt dress or a long black coat, one could spot the attention to detail and the intriguing techniques which is what the brand was always about – simplicity but the utmost quality. Half of the opening shirt dress was pleated and gathered at the front and the coats looked like A-line plissé maxi dresses themselves.
These techniques with the addition of elastic distortion were applied to more complex garments such as a see-through navy dress with diamond pattern and many elastic gatherings. While macramé technique was applied to spice up the simplicity of some shirts, dresses and coats.
The designers were keeping in line with the brand’s DNA, hence we saw a lot of variations on the poplin shirt paired with relaxed trousers, trouser suits on thin knits creating abstract patterns and the Jil Sander colour palette of white, black, navy and camel. However, colour was also introduced and so were racy patent trousers paired with a classic white shirt and a patent plisse dress with a strip of lace at the hem. Or ethereal pretty flowy dresses worn with square toe ballet flats with gold or silver rings around the ankles. The duo is certainly bringing a new touch to the brand and this could be the new Céline.
For the first time, the men’s collection was shown alongside the women’s. In many ways, the men resembled their female counterparts. White shirts, black and navy breezy suits with subtle white lines drawn across the arms and the torso, colourful jumpers and macramé knits were all presented in men’s versions. They also wore sporty light parkas, PVC shirts and sandals with braided strings. Hopefully the Meiers are here to stay for some time.
By Sara Hesikova
Images courtesy of Purple PR