Staying true to his spirit, Alessandro Sartori streamlined things for the modern customer this Autumn – while finding his own space by building a poised tension.
ALESSANDRO Sartori designs for men who prefer sleek and spare over swanky and perky, and his poised, even-tempered AW25 outing for Zegna was a compelling counterpoint to the season’s plethora of denim washes and shearling offerings.
Always thinking about volume and form, Sartori opened with a series of clean, enveloping staples followed by a slew of macro patterns and Donegal motifs, gently enlivened by a delightful take on proportion play. As a creative uniquely equipped to shine his pared-back sensibility amid a season focusing on maximalist receptivity, this collection was among his most focused, and confident to date.
The show had a subtle historical progression: it was largely inspired by the work of the founder Ermenegildo Zegna, who established the Wool Trophy Awards in Australia to support woolgrowers in pursuing the finest wool in 1963.
The AW show pays homage to the material, and to the breadth of outputs it conceives: Vellus Aureum is the name of this jewel in the Zegna crown of wool textiles, and epitomises a baton that keeps being passed from one generation to the next, both as an entrepreneurial ethos and a creative signature.
Many of his pieces have an interesting subtle feel or layering thread that lightly challenges the continuity between tradition and innovation. His mantra? Neat stuff for the win. One doesn’t expect histrionics from him; rather, Sartori quietly delivers thoughtful, sweetly provocative designs freshly transformed in details that entice gestures of style by mastering the art of conceal and reveal: plunging necklines reveal shirts that are neatly layered one atop the other; pockets are cut diagonally and low slung, for added practicality; billowing jumpers and cardigans are shoved inside high-waist trousers (they seemed more studied than outright flinty).
Rooted in essentialism, these designs feel very powerful. Casual winners this season encompassed the likes of deconstructed blazers featuring low, two-button closures; oversized coats with CashFur collars trimmed at the knee; blousons cut in a roomy manner, with lapels, stand-up collars and elasticated waists. Knitwear is a must of the season.
Continuing to explore the theme that’s occupied him throughout his tenure—simple volume and the way the drape around the body—he added novelty in the form of cashmere cotton corduroy and flannel wool from which key knits and breezy satins were made. They gave this mostly soft, sculptural outing a tough, chic vein. Jackets were a focal point: the Il Conte number continues its quiet evolution, presented in shearling, as a gilet and in a chore jersey version.
It took a moment for the eye to adjust to the wondrous beauty across the room, but it’s those intriguing details and know-how that give Sartori’s clothes their appeal. It’s safe to say Sartori has found his voice—and, in the process, raised the bar for craftsmanship in Italian fashion.
by Chidozie Obasi