MILAN, ITALY — Satoshi Kuwata’s aesthetic has stayed its course since being the recipient of the coveted LVMH Prize in 2023. But now that a snazzy vagabond look has cycled back into fashion, Setchu’s line has shifted up a gear, from reliably new to unexpectedly relevant.
You could see it in the form of a delicate silky blouse—slouchy, breezy, and angular in equal measure—as well as in the extra-large cavities sculpted in jersey and extra-wide asymmetrical cuts that cling to the body (a refreshing take within the designer’s trend lexicon, which adds to their charm).
If the collection lent itself to mixing and unmatching, the layering game on view was not always as advanced as it seemed; panels remained mysterious, integrated with tone-on-tone separates and flat proposals that were conjoined into one.
In general, the designer’s Spring 2027 offering presented as less intimidating than the label’s previous outings, which may be owing to the lived-in nature of the used textiles or, more likely, to a broadening palette beyond black. Though, be mindful never to underestimate the appeal of a white ensemble (the ones here were differentiated by artfully cut hems, fully qualifying as wardrobe essentials). Elsewhere, nets recall one of Satoshi’s journeys and pay tribute to the abundant fishing grounds found in the waters off Gabon.
And then there were slits that accentuated the irregularity of a noir-tinged gown, an element that will do well in stores, especially when longtime customers come looking for something besides another deconstructed black jacket or pair of baggy pants. You won’t see the difference, but anyone wearing the new Geta (Japan’s traditional wooden sandals) will certainly feel it while walking uptown.
Among the complex proposals, some standouts comprised a tightly packed group of neutral numbers lined with fuss-free details that could easily end up as crowd-pleasers, with trans-seasonal dressing proving the strongest trend of all.
by Chidozie Obasi