MATTHEW M. Williams has continually developed a visual dialogue of sexuality and functionality since his time at Givenchy. Draped fabrics, tactile textures and daring silhouettes all create a universal marriage within his own American in Paris storyline, continually perpetuating a vision for a modern consumer, something certainly furthered with his latest womenswear collection.Â
Piggy-backing off of the menswear collection which debuted in January of this year, the womenswear collection for Autunm/Winter 2023 took visual cues from workwear and uniform. Deriving inspiration from the relaxed styles of sweatpants and denim, the collection sees elevated interpretations of more informal styles, with unstructured, double-faced cashmere coats, fluid wool trousers and shell jackets lined in shearling.Â
The concept of fluidity and movement is one increasingly dominant in Williams latest creations, and demonstrate an effortless sense of elegance which ties into his continual homages to Hubert de Givenchy. Though granted, his designs always sit on the precipice of modernity, subtle infusions of old glamour creep in one way or another to exude an attitude which has ultimately become associated with a Givenchy woman over the decades.Â
Williams continues his dedication to the work of the late designer with more explicit references, including floral motifs straight from the archives, and evening gowns which allude to the Givenchy creations of yesteryear.Â
These pieces are contradicted by the more layered styles, with cargo-creations, baggy sweats and jersey tops making more explicit nods to the inspirations of workwear and sportswear, and cement Williams touch against a backdrop of modern elegance and sexuality.Â
by Ben Sanderson