FOR JULIEN Dossena’s autumn-winter 2024 collection for Rabanne, the designer put an emphasis on clashing, throwing away an idea that next season was about cohesion.
Utilising layering as the key tool for assembling his mis-match vision, each piece was a part of the construction of the art-school, grunge vibe of AW. Formulating new characters with each look, the girl he was designing for clearly has a wish to continually evolve her style.
Textually he was playful, messing around with houndstooth mesh, faux fur, fuzzy checks and fringed hems whilst simultaneously moulding new silhouettes as jumpers were worn around the waist and neck, dresses worn on top of turtle-necks, and shoulders were exaggerated bringing back 80s chic.
Describing the collection in the show notes as a ‘matrix of possibilities’, Dossena accommodated for the season. Python jackets, slinky skirts, oversized parkas and mini skirts allow for a concoction of day-to-night fits for the colder months – he won’t let the weather stop the party! Or as he puts it ‘make an impression as the world speeds by’.
The Rabanne girl is young and she is fun. Not following the rules is something Dossena does best, forget trends he wants to make pieces that will be in her wardrobe for years and AW24 is an eclectic answer to their thirst for individuality.
by Imogen Clark