CRAFTSMANSHIP lies at the foundation of couture. Marry that to innovation, and the result is sure to be sublime. That point has been proven in Paris, courtesy of Iris Van Herpen’s latest couture collection. Titled Syntopia – the AW18 show was quite simply a synthetic spectacle, bounding biology to technology.
How so? Laser cutting lay at the forefront for a revelation of complete intensity. One can only applaud Herpen for the alternative lens through which she views fashion: scientology. Acclaimed for her ongoing ability to explore the endless possibilities of couture, Herpen’s AW18 lab-born materials moved with magnificence. The showspace was total noir, save for glass laser-lights that lined its ceiling. As for the garments – their momentum illuminated the setting. Two coats opened the slow, woven with leather and finished with falling fringe. Classic couture? Arguably – but they only paved the way for the abstract creations that quickly followed.
And so entered Herpen’s superfluous creatures of couture. Bird feathering structured dramatic dresses which communicated cross-species connections right in the heart of Paris. But that wasn’t all. Herpen then travelled from land to sea, unveiling rippling gowns in shades of blue that beamed as though they were heading for the sun. Then came the Syntopia mini dress – evoking an overwhelming amount of flowing blood vessels in a deep magenta shade. The reaction? Jaw-dropping facial expressions which spanned across those on the sidelines.
Overall? This couture was futurism at its finest – an innovative experimentation between body and armour. Herpen’s scientific mastery is unlikely to be paralleled any time soon, so pave the way for her children of the revolution. Maybe bring a pair of shades too – this couture is stellar starlight.
by Faye Fearon
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