CELINE’s Autumn/ Winter 2026 menswear collection marked another distinct chapter in Michael Rider’s ongoing redefinition of the house, one that feels rooted in the brand’s classic codes while quietly asserting a new vernacular. Riding the momentum of his debut last summer, Rider continued to explore how timelessness and attitude can coexist, offering clothes that feel both considered and immediate.
Rider’s approach this season was rooted in a subtle dialogue between Parisian sophistication and American ease – a reflection of his own design journey through Balenciaga, Phoebe Philo’s Celine, and Polo Ralph Lauren. Rather than subverting Celine’s identity, he expanded it, embracing preppy references and tailored ease without overwhelming the house’s signature chic minimalism.
Silhouettes played with proportion and attitude. Tailored blazers and long wool coats – sharply cut but relaxed in line – formed the backbone of the collection. These were paired with trousers that ranged from crisp and streamlined to softly pleated, offering a balance between structure and comfort. Throughout, Rider’s tailoring retained a sense of ease: shoulders were defined but not rigid, and layers moved with a fluid sense of gesture.
Perhaps most striking was Rider’s subtle weaving of Celine’s heritage with his own influences. Echoes of Phoebe Philo’s refined simplicity emerged alongside touches of the Americana aesthetic: varsity-tinged sweaters, relaxed rugby stripes, and knits that felt luxe yet lived-in. The result wasn’t nostalgia; it was heritage reinterpreted for today.
In this season, Rider reaffirmed that Celine’s strength lies in its ability to feel both familiar and new. AW26 wasn’t about seismic reinvention; it was about confidence in continuity. The clothes nodded to the brand’s past without being beholden to it, striking a quietly compelling balance between Parisian refinement and a lived-in, expressive ease.
by Imogen Clark
All photographs: Zoe Ghertner