FLORENCE, ITALY — In a season booming with pared-back minimalism, William Palmer could scarcely have picked a better time to unearth a trove of references from popular culture that he’s researched over the years but never brought to fruition. “I was looking at various archetypes of people you’d find at the bus stops, particularly from the corporate world,” the British designer explained in a press preview.
William Palmer at Pitti Uomo 110
Palmer, the recipient of the Pitti Immagine Award from this year’s ITS contest (Trieste’s leading International Talent Support Programme), shaped his latest outing through a parody of characters, chief among them the office clerk. He was also inspired by British humour, sitcoms, and films like The Full Monty, which tells the tale of male strippers.
Time to set these offerings into the light of day – or night, as the case may be for the misplaced collars, the phallic ties coming out, or the trench coat that’s taken from a flasher, many of which play well into the concept alongside the newspaper. Palmer cut them in his signature shapes—razor-sharp, elongated and billowing. “I used tailoring fabrics in the underwear, hooded the garments and A-line silhouettes,” he reflects, unpacking his technical approach.
William Palmer at Pitti Uomo 110
The great thing about these clothes is their immediate appeal, though their structure is deceptive. Many have cut-outs that seem complex at first glance but have a strong wear-anywhere quality when viewed up close. Still, amid the exquisiteness, Palmer’s favourites comprise the likes of A-line silhouettes, the hoods, the lapels and the collars, which made everything a bit cheeky.
William Palmer at Pitti Uomo 110
On his future, his direction and creative intentions are clear. “I think I would like to continue the tailoring, but at least placing the fabrics. I want to bring a bit more sportswear,” he concludes. “And maybe use the tailoring fabrics in a bit more sporty way.” This vision, combined with his growing confidence and vision, will likely add up to a signature of his own.
by Chidozie Obasi