THE GATES swing open to reveal a flower-lined driveway, where the hotel’s butler awaits. As Whatley Manor rises in front of us in all its quiet glory, grey stone walls softly lit by golden light, I feel like a character from an Emily Brontë novel. The patchy signal means I can dedicate my full attention to indulging in a perfectly English countryside retreat in the Cotswolds.
Whatley Manor exterior
Set within a 19th-century manor house, the hotel embodies the Cotswolds’ charm: a maze-like layout, dark wood panelling and gardens that spread endlessly beyond the property. Despite its grandeur, the atmosphere feels homely with fires flickering quietly in the corners and stacks of board games waiting to be enjoyed with a glass of sherry.
With only 23 rooms the manor feels delightfully private. Hours pass without our paths crossing with another guest, creating an illusion that we have the entire place to ourselves.
Lounge
Suite bedroom
The thoughtful touches make our stay memorable from the beginning: a handwritten note, small treats in the room, and, especially, a neatly drawn map of the grounds. We make immediate use of it, wandering through the 12 acres of perfectly trimmed gardens, navigating hedge mazes and stumbling upon hidden fountains and streams.
Aquarias Spa pool
Later, we slip downstairs to Aquarias Spa, which stretches across the lower levels of the house. We drift between the infrared sauna and the laconium before sinking into the outdoor heated pool. Cocooned in the warm water, we spend the last hours of the day watching the sun setting over the hills, while listening to the hum of the nearby stream.
Whatley Manor Knott Garden
But it’s the dinner at Michelin-starred The Dining Room that steals our hearts. Ricki Weston’s tasting menu, described simply as an “experience”, is nothing short of a performance. Served across three intimate settings, the seven-course journey is made up of locally and sustainably sourced produce which arrives arranged in most elaborate installations.
The true standout, beef tartare and sturia caviar trifle, is the very definition of decadence. It was a pairing that I knew would linger in my memory long after the last bite, just like the entire stay at this Cotswolds haven.
by Olga Petrusewicz
Classic Room rates at Whatley Manor start from £429 per night
whatleymanor.com