Two Visions of Alpine Luxury: Maya Hotel Courchevel 1850 and Refuge de la Traye

IN THE high theatre of the French Alps, where peaks rise high above the horizon with operatic drama and winter becomes a way of life, two very different expressions of mountain luxury converse.

At Courchevel 1850, Maya Hotel opened its doors earlier this month on the dawn of Courchevel’s 80th season to bring an ultra-seek cosmopolitan pulse to the highest, most prestigious village of the world-renowned ski resort. Brimming with cultural contrasts that have been channelled into a design-led, intimate hotel, it offers all the perks of high-octane service within a small, discreet compound.

Further into the folds of the mountains lies Refuge de la Traye, a striking counterpoint set deep within the woods of Méribel. Unreachable by the crowds, and purposefully situated with intention, the historic alpine refuge speaks in tones of wellness, revels in slowness and basks in the finer details. Here, luxury is elemental. But to experience both helps you understand that the Alps, at their most compelling, is a combination of both rhythms: complete stillness and palpable speed.

Maya Hotel Courchevel 1850

Opened in December, Maya Hotel Courchevel 1850 introduces design-led hospitality that bridges Monaco’s revered glamour with Japanese serenity. This intimate hotel comprises of 14 rooms and suites across five floors that redefine the concept of an alpine boutique getaway and offer a true hideaway for travellers who look for both total privacy and value the art of craftsmanship.

Its location may not have qualified for the ski-in/ ski-out badge of honour; however, if you can walk no more than 50 metres up the road, you will find the edge of a slope – a truly rare and attractive quality.

Suites in Maya Hotel Courchevel 1850

Suites in Maya Hotel Courchevel 1850

Inside, the hotel’s interior builds on the value of nature. Combining an eclectic mix of natural wood, stone, bronze and metal, the result is a sanctuary that brings comforting warmth to the cool manner of its surroundings. Designed by architect and interior designer Sylvestre Murigneux, rooms evolve from Deluxe to Exclusive, and suites begin at Junior Suites and go up to standardised suites; each providing unparalleled views of the resort.

However, its crowning glory is the unique and exclusive Lalique Exclusive Suite. Sleeping two individuals and spread across an entire floor (123m2), it is laid out with a bedroom, lounge, dining area, bathroom (that has a personal steam room), as well as a dedicated massage room.

Naturally, its name hints at what makes this truly exceptional. In collaboration with Maison Lalique, there are exclusive crystal pieces from ornament decorations in mirrors and one-of-one crystal shower handles to a large, intricate piece above the headboard with adjoining lamps.

Lalique Exclusive Suite

Lalique Exclusive Suite

What makes this suite even more impressive is its ability to shape-shift into the Lalique Apartment. Formed to sleep up to eight individuals, the floor above has a private staircase which can be accessed through the Lalique Suite to combine the three rooms above – ideally for families or groups of friends who wish to have the perks of a hotel but crave personal space.

At the centre of Maya Hotel is Maya Well, a wellness concept spearheaded by award-winning Japanese beauty brand Forlle’d. Considered a next-generation programme that brings advanced techniques with tailor-made solutions to enhance both beauty and ease the impact of strenuous winter sports, the treatment menu spans from classic Hydrafacials to exclusive Non-Invasive Biofiller treatments and Oxygenic Skin Revival.

MayaBay Courchevel 1850 Restaurant

MayaBay Courchevel 1850 Restaurant

One of the most important aspects of any holiday is, of course, food, and MayaBay Courchevel 1850 delivers on all accounts. Deriving from the globally acclaimed MayaBay brand, which has dominated the culinary scene in Monaco, Dubai and Porto Montenegro, the Thai-Japanese restaurant blends all of your favourite flavours into a menu that you won’t get bored with – take that from someone who had four meals there.

From traditional sashimi, nigiri and hand-roll variations to signature dishes such as Wagyu Beef Tacos and Red Tuna topped with 10gr Caviar Royal Petrossian (both personal favourites of mine), to comforting Red Grilled Lobster Curry and Grilled Sole Fillet in Satay Sauce. As someone well acquainted with dining in the French Alps, this was a much-needed respite from the copious fondue and raclette that usually dominate a week-long, heavy menu.

Refuge de la Traye

Perched neatly at 1,650m on the Plateau de la Traye near Méribel, lies Refuge de la Traye, a high-end refuge fit for a Bond movie. Only accessible from a winding track up and through the forest via foot or electric snowmobile from the hours of 10am until 7pm, you are welcomed into an atmosphere that boasts intimacy with a slightly untamed tone – wooden chalets, broad panoramic views of the Three Valleys, and a sense that nature here sets the precedent.

Refuge de la Traye. Photograph: Vincent Leroux

The terrace at Refuge de la Traye. Photograph: Vincent Leroux

Originally built in 1982 and fully reimagined in 2019, the refuge brings together Savoyard authenticity with a refined sensibility that suits both seasoned skiers and summer wanderers alike. Made up of only six rooms and suites spread between chalet-style lodging, the scale is deliberately small with a maximum of 16 guests at any one time paired with an impressive 20 members of staff.

All rooms are personalised and evoke its surroundings through local material pairings like pine, stone, and sheepskin to create that very traditional feel to the interior.

Room in Refuge de la Traye

Whilst ultra exclusive, its restaurant allows visitors and locals to dine at its restaurant, La Table de la Traye. Bringing the depths of French cuisine to the table, you can experience all the best dishes like succulent lamb and truffle-infused terrine, all savoured beside a crackling fire or, if you prefer, the sun-filled terrace.

Sauna at Refuge de la Traye

How impressive this small getaway really is is amplified by its wellness space – an area far from being an afterthought and more designed to be an attraction. From a sauna that looks out onto the infinity pool and an outdoor heated jacuzzi to keep you warm, to medical aesthetics like Vivace micro-needling, Mostleds (an LED light therapy that regenerates and energises cells), to the Iyashi Dome, which covers your body to eliminate toxins and heavy metals – and that’s not even all that they have.

Together, Maya Hotel Courchevel 1850 and Refuge de la Traye reveal a more nuanced vision of Alpine luxury – one that prizes atmosphere over ostentation and experience over excess. In their separate ways, they offer antidotes to the bombast often associated with the Alps, where one of the most important things is always overlooked: the beauty of the mountains.

by Imogen Clark

Maya Hotel Courchevel: Minimum 2 nights From €1,568 BB for a deluxe room

Refuge de la Traye: Minimum 2 night From €1,790 BB for a deluxe room