Glass experiences the quiet luxuries of Southern Thailand

FLYING non-stop to Bangkok has never been more comfortable and flexible than with EVA on their B777-300ER airplanes. There are three levels of cabin service – Economy, Premium Economy and (with 2-metre long flat beds and Giorgio Armani overnight amenity kits) Royal Laurel Class – and they all bring you to Thailand’s capital for onward travel to two spectacular resorts.

It is little exaggeration to say, on walking into the open-air lobby of Banyan Tree Krabi for the first time, that the view is mesmerising. Gazing out at four towers of limestone rock in a shimmering sea – karst formations that have become the visual signature of Krabi – the vista seems too serene and dreamy to be real.

Beach at Banyan Tree Krabi

Banyan Tree Krabi pool

The beauty of the Andaman coast is no secret, but Banyan Tree Krabi, on a quiet beach and close to a national park, enjoys a niche location which protects it from being sandwiched between other resorts.

Untypically for Banyan Tree, there are villas as well as suites and all accommodation comes with its own pool and faces west for sunsets and entrancing views. A longtail boat is available for boat trips to Koh Hong and the volcanic lagoon in the centre of the island.

Dining Birds Nest

Banyan Tree Krabi’s own longboat, The White Pearl

Southern Thai cuisine, with spicy tastes relying more on local herbs than chilli, is rightfully the focus of the resort’s restaurants and the head chef is dextrous at making vegetarian versions of classic dishes like pad thai and massaman phak, plus a wonderful phad phak boong fai dang with a vegetable oyster sauce.

Bird’s Nest restaurant deserves special mention, not because it serves bird’s nest soup (it doesn’t) but due to its unique location, reached by a one-minute ride in a funicular: three tables, each in the form of a private and cosy nest that looks but doesn’t feel like it is perched on the side of a cliff. The space is as intimate as one could get and a ‘nest’ (also available for afternoon tea), with one of its four set menus should be booked as early as possible. 

Poolside at Trisara

Picture a tiny rocky islet off the coast of Phuket with a solitary palm tree, a real-life rendition of the cartoon desert island where pirates or a shipwreck leave someone marooned. It is clearly visible at the resort Trisara, which like the islet, offers maximum privacy but goes hand in hand with luxury; with rescue coming in the form of treatments at Jara spa, superlative culinary experiences, wellness activities and an international airport fifteen minutes away.

Parts of Phuket have been spoiled by excessive development, making Trisara’s super-spacious villas, each with a pool and veranda, a precious retreat from the hurly-burly further down the coast. The setting is gorgeously tropical, landscaped with coconut and fishtail palms, walkways bordered with brightly coloured flowers and a surrounding green canopy of trees. 

The approach to Jampa

Views from Trisara

The dining scene excels and the care devoted to its farm-to-table philosophy is confirmed by a visit to Trisara’s organic vegetable, herb and free-range egg farm. At the time of writing, Phuket has only one Michelin-starred restaurant – Trisara’s Pru – and Executive Chef Jim Ophorst presides at its open kitchen for dinner (Tues-Sat) and lunch (Fri-Sat). Trisara’s garden also provides Chef Dingen with ingredients at Jamba, a serious contender for becoming Phuket’s second restaurant with a Michelin star.

Jamba enjoys a truly bucolic situation, in harmony with the complex but delicate dishes, many vegetarian, brought to your table. Completing the constellation of fine restaurants and befitting its Mediterranean-style identity, Cielo is footsteps from a beach (effectively a private one) and brings a flavour of southern Europe to its menu. Trisara is not a desert island but being marooned here is something you could wish for.

by Sean Sheehan

For more information, see banyantree.com/thailand/Krabi, trisara.com and prurestaurant.com 

EVA Air flies non-stop from London Heathrow to Bangkok with fares starting from £728; to book, see evaair.com

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Glass Online food writer

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