Maria Grazia Chiuri worked to reinvent the stereotype of Christian Dior’s history for Pre- AW22.
Dior Pre-AW22 Look 2
The release of Justine Picardie’s book, Miss Dior, in September triggered a look into Mr Dior’s relationships with the women closest to him. The book tells the vastly untold story of the life of his sister Catherine who was holocaust survivor and then a muse to her brother. She was one of the women who also served as inspiration for the strength and communion behind Chiuri’s latest collection.
Dior Pre-AW22 Look 4
School uniform is a reference throughout, and one which came from the idea of togetherness. Chiuri was interested in the ability to fit into any given group by dressing the same. Through knee-length kilts, masculine jackets and sportswear, Dior took us back to the locker rooms.
Dior Pre-AW22 Look 14
However, by incorporating mismatched elements and punk overtones, there is an exploration into the fluidity of uniforms and how they can also be a route to individuality for many students.
Chiuri recognises the desire to add distinctive details or ‘revamps’ in order to stand out from the crowd. Layered tartans, embroidered knitwear and black ribbons tied around the models’ ankles and knees all hint towards an ode to self-expression when not yet in a place of freedom.
Dior Pre-AW22 Look 22
Dior Pre-AW22 Look 16
Dior Pre-AW22 Look 20
A message of feminist unity, which has now become synonymous with Dior in recent years, is maintained this season. The slogan chosen this time to adorn her t-shirts is the headline of a 1947 Vogue article by Simone de Beauvoir: “Femininity is a trap”.
Overall, a collection composed of leopard print, leather coats and boxy shorts paired with even boxier shirts . Maria Grazia Chiuri made sure the only nod to the New Look was emblazoning the phrase across the front of a racer top.
by Pia Brynteson