I, LIKE many, have a favoured Chinese restaurant – a fail-safe that will likely last me a lifetime and have relied on many evenings. I get the same thing every time and the only sign of straying is when you put your chopsticks into the food of who you’re sharing the meal with. It’s comforting, reliable and always hits the spot. So why go elsewhere? Well, the answer lies in elevating the experience – quite literally.
Situated on the thirty-third floor of the Shard is Hutong, a restaurant that operates to explore Northern Chinese cuisine against the backdrop of London’s cityscape. After being whisked up at rocket speed in a matter of seconds, you enter a dark red ambience with its interior inspired by tea houses in Beijing.
Hutong at The Shard
Decked out with red lanterns, dark wood panels and hand-carved gates, and with the blinking lights of the modern city outside, the scene is set. We are a far cry from the almost clinical white lights of Chinatown’s establishments or the comfort of my dining room table.
Met by two enthusiastic waiters and escorted to our window seat table, we were given the Skyline Experience Menu – what they would consider their best dishes all packed into a clean, formatted manner. What’s most interesting about this place, is that despite its large prices – but would you expect any different considering its location – is its large variety of set menus.
Whilst we had the most expensive, priced at £145 per person, they also offer lunchtime deals starting at £39pp and Hutong Dynasty weekend brunches from £60pp, making it a perfect outing for the upcoming Mother’s Day.
Hutong at The Shard
Starting our dinner off with a glass of champagne, our first dish was the classic Roasted Peking Duck with pancakes. Naturally, this wasn’t the shredded on-a-plate with two forks version, but rather a waiter who stands table-side and meticulously carves sixteen beautifully presented thin slices of meat all finished with a crispy rim of skin.
Whilst the presentation and pure excitement of the theatrics of this starter brought a new side to this much-loved course, it doesn’t matter if you are going down the fine-dining route, the only way to consume this is by hand. It certainly makes you smile at the contrast between presentation versus consumption.
Next up was an elegant selection of Dim Sum: Mushroom and Spinach, Cod and Seaweed, XO Sauce Crystal Prawn Dumpling, and Rosé Champagne Shrimp Dumpling. All delicate in both texture and taste, and the latter being an unusual favourite at my table.
Hutong at The Shard
Now it was time for the main event that highlighted the complex flavours of Sichuan and Shandong provinces. We were given their famous Red Lantern Crispy soft-shell crab in a basket of Sichuan dried chilli, Wok-fried Cod fillet, Ma La Beef Tenderloin in a black bean sauce, Pak Choy with heaps of garlic and Chef’s Picked Vegetable fried rice – a generous combination that scaled not only the menu but also displayed the variety of spice levels.
For me, the cod was a highlight and not something I would have picked normally. It was sticky and slightly crisp on the outside whilst flaky and soft within – it’s a dish that I will think about for a long time and likely fail to recreate.
Hutong at The Shard
Finishing on a small and light Mango pudding, the precision of quantity was something I thanked. It’s clearly a tried and tested menu that leaves you feeling full but not yet unbuttoning your trousers. From start to finish, the service was polished and not pretentious, and the clientele was a positive mixture of international jet-setters, hungry city boys and couples celebrating milestones.
Hutong at The Shard certainly delivers on all fronts, bringing an intoxicating blend of high-rise drama to flavours we all return to time and time again.
by Imogen Clark
Hutong at The Shard, 31 St Thomas St, London SE1 9RY
Upon booking for Hutong this Mother’s Day, a complimentary glass of bubbles can be added. There is also an option of gifting mothers and mother figures a bouquet of flowers for an additional cost.