ON A catwalk lined with rocks and sand, Di Petsa investigates The Archaeology of Self in a slow and ethereal collection for Spring/ Summer 2026.
Founded in London in 2019 by Greek designer Dimitra Petsa, the namesake label has cultivated a strong identity rooted in sensuality, mythology, and ethereal design. This season, the brand continues to develop the identity of the Di Petsa woman: fluid yet grounded, romantic yet bold, sacred and sensual in equal measure.
Staying true to the brand’s core identity, Petsa constructed a narrative that deepens her ongoing exploration of the relationship between water and woman. As the sound of water dripping echoed against curved architectural walls, the atmosphere transformed. It felt as though the audience had stepped into a hidden tomb or a lost city where forgotten treasures and ancestral memories waited to be discovered.
Models awoke from their tombs with mud-streaked makeup and skin covered in body glitter, reflecting light in a way that felt otherworldly. They moved as if emerging from the earth or sea, carrying ancestral memory in their gestures.
Each look is carved with references into its seams. One long black dress had been tailored to expose the left breast, paying homage to Agnès Sorel. The infamous mistress of King Charles VII of France, who rose to power and became one of his closest advisors, had her dresses altered to reveal her favourite breast. Honouring women and uplifting historical references, the collection blends ancient storytelling with modern sensuality.
Softly draped fabrics return as a Di Petsa signature this season. Deep cyan garments ripple with movement, slowing the models’ steps and revealing slivers of skin with graceful sensuality, like a waterfall cascading. Through modernised togas, every element of femininity was brought to light, unearthed with care and reverence. These garments held both softness and strength, presenting a vision of womanhood that is timeless and divine.
For more casual occasions, and the brand’s famously surreal take on partywear, t-shirts and cargo trousers appeared with delicate ruffled detailing stitched across them. A wet-look slogan dress clung tightly to the body, capturing the feeling of just having stepped from the ocean, making her a siren of coolness. Structured trousers grounded an otherwise weightless collection. Detailed with pleating and ruching, these workwear pants are transferable for digging in caves or getting lost in the rave.
Although Di Petsa celebrates femininity at its core, the collection also featured androgynous pieces worn by male models. Boxy slogan t-shirts, tailored trousers, and deconstructed wet-look tops made from silk and jersey were styled with a chic, effortless energy. Reflecting her eco-feminist philosophy, Di Petsa designs for all genders, embracing femininity as a universal force present in every form of life.
One of the most striking looks was a caramel-coloured ball gown. Hooks and crinolines protruded from the fabric, forming shapes that resembled delicate fins. Paired with large oval sunglasses, the look gave the model an alien yet sacred appearance. It was a powerful vision of femininity that defies the ordinary.
The show ended with a quiet but powerful performance piece. A ceramic-winged angel appeared on the stage, her body smeared with mud. Two nymphs washed her in a ritual act of cleansing and rebirth. Other angels moved around them, some standing completely still, resembling ancient Kore statues, frozen in a moment of timeless beauty.
Each look contributes to a beautiful mosaic of the inner self, creating a vivid portrait of femininity shaped by philosophy and psychology. This is surely a show to remember, as we witness Di Petsa evolve with every collection.
by Ellis Dowle