MILAN, ITALY — Say “Cucinelli” and you already sound Italian — or at least like an Italian speaking English. A love of storytelling anchors the concept behind this heritage brand, but as creative director Brunello Cucinelli frames it, the genesis of the label was less about saluting favourite classics and more about drawing on a subtly contemporary aesthetic, then translating that into cool, accessible clothes.
Clearly, he’s onto something: the brand’s jacquards and structured jackets are perennial bestsellers, and its reach now extends from east to west and across generations of aficionados.
For Autumn/ Winter 2026, Brunello Cucinelli expands its repertoire, leaning into unexpected yet harmonious contrasts. There’s an emphasis on feminine fabrics and delicate, refined finishes — lace, intricate patterns, and embroidery with an animalier twist (the latter a novelty this season). Textured statement pieces feature orthogonal volumes drawn from British heritage, creating new interplays of checks, houndstooth, Prince of Wales, windowpane, and tartan that “intertwine across woven textures, embroidered fabrics, jacquard knits, printed silks, and even shearling,” as the notes explain.
Anchored by a strong lineup of accessories and shedding some of the pragmatism seen in its summer outings, the designer continued to court his muse with wardrobe-building separates. A palette of tweeds, brushed effects, and malfilé alternates with lace, opening the door to unbridled prettiness. The focus rests on textural details that punctuate otherwise simple silhouettes.
Elsewhere, knitwear takes centre stage as Cucinelli transforms yarn into narrative through special techniques that create a new language — fur-like stitches highlighted with radiant accents. As usual, a tailored sensibility prevails, and the house’s signature tailoring remains firmly in evidence. By creating tension between transparency, composure, and movement, the collection offers updated, model-off-duty classics that customers will covet.
Overall, the collection finds the brand pushing its traditional aesthetic in a more refined direction.
by Chidozie Obasi