MILAN, ITALY — Matteo Tamburini specialises in two very similar categories: tailoring and volume. Both lend particularly well to the concept of lightness, and that’s where Tod’s chief creative officer got to work on Tod’s Autumn/ Winter 2026 collection.
This season, in fact, Tamburini developed a superfine slew of separates and longline dresses that hugged and shaped the body with structure and subtle poise. Elsewhere, Tamburini used similarly buoyant textures such as silks, ultra-flexible suede, and an airy, breezy supple leather. In layering items like crisp shirts, wide-leg pants, and cinched little jackets, those textures skimmed the body rather than clung to it. Tamburini approached his popular volumes with a new sense of ease and structure.
Sleeveless toppers held their shape when paired with boxy pants, and different style techniques lent a bit of slouch to the designer’s signature wear-anywhere gomminos. Among the daily options, generous and enveloping volumes play off against more fitted numbers, with shortened sleeves and a defined waist that take centre stage.
Iconic pieces such as the trench and the peacoat are reinterpreted with couture-inspired tailoring, while a quilted bomber in supple aged calfskin completes the offering. The foulard dresses are defined by graphic patchwork, and the lineup’s palette includes rich natural tones, from burnt caramel, ginger to chocolate, offset by crisp black and white graphic accents.
The contrast between his sharply cut outerwear—which have inspired a following of their own—and a fuss-free, artisanal knit will surely appeal to women who think about texture, volume and shape before all manner of prints and embellishments. Tamburini’s gamut of hues also mirrored his quiet approach to luxury: refreshing shades of brown were in for the win.
Further standouts were mixed in menswear-leaning blazers and crisp suiting. Suiting is the brand’s other key ingredient; Tamburini’s best-selling pieces would be a nice counter to one of those jackets.
by Chidozie Obasi