THERE is a certain bluntness to Jonathan Anderson’s designs that make them hard to ignore. Whether it was last season’s ballon heels, a literal broken skateboard attached to a sweater, or the gigantic holes in t-shirts – to name a few of the viral moments the Irish designer has had recently – Anderson’s approach to clothing allows his inner child to run free.
And for autumn-winter 2023, he rushed back to his childhood to revive a long-lost companion; the Wellipets. But not just any pair wellingtons, in particular the ones that graced every national newspaper and tabloid, that every British child adorned, and the one notably chosen by the late Princess Diana for her boys. Mimicking a frog, Anderson has collaborated with the brand for a special, slightly more high-fashion version of these beloved shoes but elevating them into clogs in three different colour-ways.
The reassuring domesticity is threaded throughout the collection, with womenswear intertwined between looks introducing a new dialogue to the brand stating whatever is for him is also for her – a clever nod to the value of sharing that we are taught as children. But Anderson digs deeper into the notion of home life as pillows are gripped tightly by models adding intimacy to AW23, while the openings looks only included underwear forcefully unravelling any sort of stereotypical British conservatism.
While pants were on display, minimalism was key – both literally and figuratively. Nothing was complicated here. Oversized duffle coats in leather and faux fur nodded to the season, whilst baggy knits and cropped shirts played around with silhouettes adding to the expectation of Anderson’s liking towards nonlinear shapes. Notably ruffles reappeared for AW23 but this time around the hems of shorts and structure of lapels on shearling lined aviator jackets evolving the seminal motif of the brand.
Every season it is clear Anderson truly understands clothing, right down to its very core. Showcasing the basics through a lens of care and craft, the simple items like shirts, shorts and jackets can be reimagined altering materials and dimensions to present pieces that made for your home or even running through puddles – and who doesn’t love doing that.
by Imogen Clark