AFTER unveiling a new era at Mithridate with the appointment of Daniel Fletcher earlier this year, the British designer returns with his sophomore collection for Pre-Spring 2026.
Aptly titled The Joys of Spring, the collection builds on the foundations laid in AW25, furthering Fletcher’s vision of a wardrobe that transitions seamlessly from day to night, and from city to countryside. With the theme of renewal running throughout—apt for a season of change—there’s a noticeable lightness and playfulness in the clothing.
Photographs of a young David Hockney adorned Fletcher’s moodboard. It wasn’t just the artist’s work that drew Fletcher in, but also his personal style. “I love the way he puts clothes and colours together,” the Creative Director shared over the phone. “He often mixes spots with stripes, and pairs these almost sickly pastels with rich tones. He was a major source of inspiration for the colour palette.”
Pastels appear throughout the collection—from striped polos and shirts to unisex boxers and carpenter jackets. “When I look at the pastels we used, they’re slightly off—awkward, even. It’s something I really love, and it feels very British. It reminds me of old interiors, like sun-faded wallpapers, where what remains are these washed-out hues. That was actually one of our starting points.”
British wardrobe staples are viewed through a romantic lens, with the arrival of lighter layers marking the start of outdoor excursions after the colder months. Drawing from the uniforms of these getaways, Fletcher placed particular focus on accessories—most notably in leatherwear.
“There’s a bag you’ll see throughout with this ruched detail on the outside, inspired by the interior of a trunk,” he explains. “I was thinking about the changing seasons and doing things you couldn’t in winter. I love the idea of packing up a trunk and leaving London—but then bringing those details outside and applying them to a bag.”
Elsewhere, subtle nods to Wimbledon emerged in the form of knotted jumper detailing. “It’s essentially a sleeve—not a full jumper,” says Fletcher. “I took the idea of a sweater draped over the shoulders and knitted one sleeve, so it functions more like a wrap or shawl. It’s basically a scarf you can wear however you want. It’s a nod to that quintessentially British styling.”
Though rooted in outdoor moments—think reading a book on Hampstead Heath or drifting along the Thames—Pre-Spring 2026 also considers what happens after dark. “There was a more hedonistic approach,” Fletcher notes, referencing Jarvis Cocker and Mick Jagger as muses. Suiting, embellished satin dresses, and aged leather pieces adopt a looser, more effortless aesthetic while maintaining the collection’s easy charm.
With SS26 on the horizon this September, Mithridate has offered a promising glimpse of what’s to come. Perhaps it’s time to dust off your old trunk—because it’s most definitely back in fashion.
by Imogen Clark