TORY Burch delivered an inventive and playful SS25 collection, blending elements of sport with a twist of sensuality and humour. Burch reflects upon the facets of sport that centered the collection, “The synchronicity of movement and form. This collection began with the essence of sport: power and grace, precision and freedom.”
The show occurred at Skylight at The Refinery, once a Domino Sugar Factory that has since been transformed into an atmospheric venue. The eclectic mix of designs felt both fresh and nostalgic, reinterpreting classic styles while still pushing boundaries.
The collection played with concepts of freedom and escapism, taking its inspiration from quintessential sportswear and giving it an entirely new feel. The swimsuits were meticulously embroidered with sequins, creating an entracing sparkle that accentualtes every movement.
The belts and ties echo gestures of martial arts jackets –while the colour-blocked sweaters gave a nod to the athletic jerseys. Each piece was intentionally crafted to follow the lines of the body, with detailed seaming and quilting that created maps to the wearer’s form–emanating a uniquely sensual feel.
Standout pieces included skirts with wire-threaded waistlines that masterfully bend and shape around the curves of the body, evoking dynamic and sculptural shapes that took on a life of their own. The collection furthered their concept of sensuality through the use of draping and cascading chiffon skirts styled alongside flattering cotton V-necks. These details blend the casual with the luxurious in a way that’s effortless.
The show was a testament to Tory Burch’s mastery of fabric and texture as materials ever-shifted between the sporty, the sumptuous, and the unusual. Quilted cotton, waffle knits, and stretch wool gauze were juxtaposed against hand-twisted sequins, crystal beading, and featherweight suede, creating a refreshing textural contrast.
The accessories were just as ingenious. An abstract jacquard, drawing inspiration from swimmers and waves, added an eccentric yet sophisticated touch. As well as a classic toile de jouy print revealed hidden surprises with aliens peeking through flora and fauna.
The pierced collection evolved with a new oval handbag in soft, unlined leather featuring an oversized ring, adding a minimalist and intriguing statement. Another striking element was the Balloon shoulder bag, presented in distorted T Monogram and glossy finishes.
For the evening, Tory Burch cast its signature Eleanor box bag in metal, along with a velvet pouch embellished with flocked sequins and silk fringe that swept the floor.
Footwear also took a central role in the collection. Nearly every shoe drew from the structure of a ballet slipper, from the Twisted pump to the updated Reva ballet, originally launched in 2006.
The modern iterations of the Reva featured unexpected cut-outs, a beveled coin detail, and a sleek new mule silhouette, blending classic and contemporary.
Metal chandelier earrings were designed in the shapes of cartoon-like aliens or octopuses, adding a humorous twist to the looks. Sunglasses wrapped around the face, giving an edgy, futuristic feel, while slim belts and leather amulets added both a subtle yet chic finish to many of the ensembles.
The revamped industrial atmosphere was further enhanced by the music, curated by Wladimir Schall, featuring a mix of tracks like “Surge” by Cid Rim, “Spacer Woman” by Charlie, “Apocalypso” by Chris & Cosey, and “Dance Yrself Clean” by LCD Soundsystem, creating a pulsating soundtrack that perfectly matched the energy of the collection.
by Alia Campos