ENTERING into a realm of fairytale meets grim modern-day political tension, Rick Owens evokes and references authoritarian politics in his SS20 collection. Creating almost-cyber like women, the collection is informed by a fictional social hierarchy that eerily mirrors our own, blending futuristic headgear with ancient mythic pieces to create an ambiguous yet powerful social nightmare.
Metallic head-ware headlined the collection, creating a futuristic tone, almost reminiscent of costumes seen in sci-fi franchises like Star Wars. Structured silhouettes indicate a sense of power and control, as well as Owen’s dangerously-high platform-boots. Spliced fabrics and square shoulders added to the feeling of fantasy. Even the backdrop echoes this, with models walking through hundreds of bubbles, blown from off the runway, invoking a the surrealist yet dreamy mood.
Despite its ambitious theme and unconventional pieces, most of the looks do have a level of wearability. Sequin gowns and metallic dresses are more wearable than previous collections, trading in spectacle for more practicality for his SS20. Differing from his SS19, the collection loses Owen’s signature urban street-wear element, presenting a fresh look for the fashion house.
While this collection was certainly an unconventional and brave move for the designer, he succeeds in his exploration of authoritarian politics in fashion. As Owens rightly says, “Allowing yourself to be vulnerable is also one of the most attractive things you can do.”
by Emma Hart