DRAWING influence from 19th century Parisian fashion and industrial trends, Glenn Martens materialises Western European fashion history with his SS20 collection at PFW. The show itself tied these ideas together, backdropped to a remixed version of Johann Strauss’s The Blue Danube Waltz – creating a dreamy yet climatic scene to showcase the collection.
Much like his SS19 collection, the clothes are informed by layered and spliced pieces. Not one to take inspiration from just one theme or concept, the layered clothes helps to convey the designer’s different influences for the designs. Celebrating the juxtaposition of two contrasts, Martens blends 19th century Paris with industrialism through unexpected combinations, such as satin with spiked-metal hard-ware, or chiffon with nylon.
19th century trends culminate in bustiers, ruched details and ruffled necklines. Showcasing his ability to bring trends throughout history and remake them for the modern woman, Martens celebrates the evolution of fashion, showing through androgynous silhouettes and typically masculine design how we live in world where clothes are no longer defined by gender. He also recycles these trends by modernising old designs, especially by creating pieces that show a lot more skin that would typically be seen in 19th century France.
Very Westwood-like in its provocative approach to Victorian-era trends, Martens succeeds in his ability to reinvent 19th century womenswear for the modern woman.
by Emma Hart