MARIA Grazia Chiuri takes us on a historical expedition with her latest collection for Dior. Using Parisian motifs as a medium to infuse an element of autobiographical language, as well as taking inspiration from some notable figures of the French court of the 16th century, the show was a cohesive, monochromatic presentation that was rife in reference.
The grandiose setting of the runway was enough of a hint we were in for a transportation back in time. Fragmented structures of arched stone gave the suggestion of a church or a French monastery, the golden beige ultimately serving as the perfect backdrop for the garments.
Deriving inspiration from the French court of yesteryear, Chiuri took greatest influence from former French queen Catherine De Medici. A controversial figure, at the time accused of using black magic against her subjects, she has since become synonymous with religious warfare and the massacre of St Bartholomew’s Day, of which she is believed to have been involved with. This made the setting all the more haunting.Â
Dresses with pannier style skirts, corsetry and lace were in abundance, indeed referencing some of the items De Medici herself pioneered into the French court, and were shown alongside more modern interpretations of 16th century dressing. For instance, shirts with exaggerated puff sleeves, or jackets tied from the front which created a regal train flowing behind the model as they walked. A frequented motif was a map of Paris dug from the Maison’s archives, plastered across dresses, trousers and more.
Though the influences were indeed rich, there were an arsenal of Maria Grazia Chiuri signatures present within the collection, from cropped bralets, corset belts and broderie anglaise, all elements which recalled the wide array of references back into the modern day and made the collection more familiar to the audience.Â
by Ben Sanderson