WE TOUCH down at Kigali just as the city begins to stir to life. The nine-hour flight to Rwanda’s capital feels seamless aboard RwandAir and is well worth it for the promise of African sunshine. Outside, our driver and guide greet us warmly beside a green Jeep that will become our trusted companion for the days ahead.
Our home in Kigali is Heaven, a family-owned boutique hotel tucked away on a leafy street. Once a hospitality training college, Heaven now shines as a hub of creativity, offering art and cultural tours, cooking classes, banana wine-making sessions and even on-site custom tailoring.
The first stop is the Kigali Genocide Memorial, a sombre and humbling experience. The museum recounts the horrors of the 1994 genocide while also telling stories of resilience and forgiveness. I find it remarkable to learn how a country scarred by such tragedy has transformed its pain into a powerful commitment to peace and unity.
Kigali, Rwanda
Rwanda Volcanos National Park
Kigali itself pulses with energy; streets are alive with motorbikes and bright yellow helmets, reflecting the city’s most efficient mode of transport. It feels modern and vibrant, with gleaming skyscrapers rising beside green parks, a golf course and a 7km running track weaving through the heart of the city. The streets are lined with charming cafes, quaint art shops and lots of restaurants.
At Repub Lounge, we savour African-inspired flavours on a shaded terrace – tender goat curry, sauteed aubergines and isombe, a rich cassava leaf dish. At Meza Malonga, Chef Dieuveil Malonga wows us with a 10-course tasting menu, mixing contemporary techniques with African heritage to create a truly unforgettable feast.
Meza Malonga
Virunga Lodge Aerial View
Leaving Kigali, we head northwest towards Virunga National Park, famously home to endangered mountain gorillas. As our Jeep climbs each incline with an audible exhaust, I see why Rwanda is called the “Land of a Thousand Hills”, with its terraced slopes, blue lakes and mist-surrounded volcanoes dotting the panorama.
We stay at Virunga Safari Lodges, perched atop a ridge 2,300m above sea level, where only the sound of birds pierces the silence. The interiors strike a perfect balance between rustic charm and understated luxury, with colourful textiles and a cosy fireplace for the chilly nights. All meals are communal, allowing us to exchange stories with the other guests, who kindly offer us tips for our own upcoming hikes.
Virunga Lodge Deluxe room
The day of our trek begins at 5am, with the lodge staff softly singing and coffee in hand. After a bumpy ride humorously nicknamed an “African massage”, we meet our guide, Francis, for a short briefing about the Susa gorilla family, one of the oldest groups in Virunga.
We hike through potato fields and bamboo forests with eager anticipation. First, I spot two playful youngsters tumbling through the undergrowth, followed by an impressive silverback, assessing us with quiet authority before settling down to chew on a bamboo. The moment peaks as we see a mother cradling her four-month-old baby, who peers curiously at us. Observing gorillas up close in their natural habitat is an unforgettable privilege.
Mountain Gorilla in Volcanos National Park
Our final destination is Akagera National Park. Home to the “Big Five” – lions, leopards, elephants, rhinos and buffaloes – the park spans more than 1,000sq km along the Tanzanian border and is a symbol of Rwanda’s impressive conservation efforts. With its savannahs, wetlands and red clay roads, it provides a stark contrast to the volcanic peaks of the north.
Staying at Mantis Akagera Game Lodge, I witness stunning views of Lake Ihema stretching endlessly beyond my window. On our first game drive, we eagerly search for wildlife hidden among the bushes. Rumours of elephants send us racing through the park and soon we find ourselves face-to-face with a majestic giant. As its trunk stretches towards the branches, I pause to take it in – a reminder of the beauty of nature and a testament to Rwanda’s efforts to preserve it.
by Olga Petrusewicz
To find out more visitrwanda.com
Flight fares start from £694.52 per person.
Book direct ticket to Kigali on rwandair.com/book
Heaven Rwanda, Kigali – £85 a night
Virunga Lodge, Volcanoes Safaris – £845 all-inclusive
volcanoessafaris.com/lodge/virunga-lodge-rwanda
Mantis Akagera Game Lodge
£180 on standard room with B&B included
mantiscollection.com/hotel/akagera-national-park-mantis-eco-lodge