TRADITIONALLY, the word yūgen holds profound spiritual significance in Japanese culture. It embodies the belief that an unseen, ineffable dimension exists beyond our everyday perception—an enigmatic depth that evokes both mystery and a yearning for connection. Melbourne’s restaurant of the same name, launched in 2022, strives to encapsulate this very notion.
Nestled deep underground, Yūgen’s setting evokes the allure of a hidden cavern. Its immersive atmosphere is cocooned in warmth—subdued, intimate, and quietly mesmerising. Bathed in golden light, pockets of the concrete-clad space shimmer with an almost ethereal glow, as though fragments of precious stone have been unearthed within this subterranean retreat.
Yugen’s Chandelier
At the heart of the space, an exquisite chandelier cascades above the central bar—an architectural marvel that has swiftly become an icon of Melbourne’s dining scene. It is so striking, in fact, that upon stepping out of the glass lift, one is met with a queue of eager guests awaiting their turn to capture a moment beneath its glow—a testament to its magnetic allure.
Yet, beyond the initial spectacle, Yūgen is defined by its dedication to refined, modern Asian cuisine, where reverence for premium produce and traditional techniques takes centre stage.
Our evening began with two exquisitely balanced cocktails: the Lychee Highball and the Tiger Repellent. Both a delicate interplay of sweet and sour, these drinks wove together ingredients such as green tea umeshu, pickled ginger, kurata pepper, and persimmon—an enticing prelude to the Japanese delicacies that would follow.
Taiyaki Milk Punch, Yugen
Fried Barramundi, Yugen
A selection of grilled edamame, smoked eel chawanmushi, and an artfully arranged sashimi platter provided a generous foundation upon which the evening would unfold. Each dish showcased the impeccable quality of the fish, the ingenuity of its preparation, and the meticulous attention to presentation that Yūgen so proudly upholds. At times, conversation at our table fell away entirely, replaced by quiet reverence as we savoured the melt-in-the-mouth perfection of each bite.
Beef Shimo, Yugen
Special fried rice, Yugen
The miso-glazed toothfish, served with delicate potato noodles, was irresistibly sticky and sweet. Paired with the aubergine, dressed in bonito ponzu and scattered with wisps of itogaki, the dish achieved a sublime balance of sweetness and umami depth.
The shimo sirloin was devoured with barely a pause, while the egg-fried rice, laced with crispy seaweed, was easily the most memorable dish I’ve had this year. When accompanied by a crisp 2024 Chardonnay or the briny complexity of Chikuha Oyster sake, the experience reached a state of pure indulgence.
For the grand finale, the chocolate dome dessert arrived—a masterpiece of pillowy, sugar-dusted delicacies resting on a luscious bed of caramel miso sauce. A fittingly decadent conclusion to an unforgettable evening.
And yes, in case you were wondering—of course, I took a photo with the chandelier.
by Lily Rimmer
Wednesday – Sunday 6pm – Late
605 Chapel street South Yarra, Melbourne, Australia