JUNGLE scenes and a romantic ambience, the Vionnet AW18 show explored and challenged the relationship between hard and soft. Elegant forest green high-shine nylon met structured draping and a harsh zip in the first dress look. An anorak sprung to mind when you studied it in detail and as the show continued it seemed the collection was designed for the fashion-forward explorer in survival mode if ever there was one. This theme was enhanced further by the reptilian scaly leggings and chunky black boots underneath the dress. Goga Ashkenazi, the creative director of Vionnet, was bringing an exotic twist to sharp and pristine past collections.
As each look continued, camouflage was referenced with a khaki green colour palette. When cream shades began to creep in a sense of safari attire came to mind. Lightweight and airy draping alluded to a hotter weather climate. Ashkenazi really took the jungle theme to the next level. Prints ranged from crocodile scales to butterflies to starry night skies. Textures varied and each look was a landscape of intricate design.
Weaving featured on the shoulders of ballgown dresses, chiffon was ruched and pleated, knots were delicately placed to cinch in waists. Jackets were oversized and airy, trousers were loose, and sheer textiles alluded to a mosquito net, with black dot embroidery to resemble flies.
Winne Harlow stunned in a ruched navy gown, a definite stand-out piece. Another stand-out piece of the collection was the red dress that was folded and suggestive with a high leg split. Set against the green background the pop of red was bold and vibrant. The AW18 collection was deeply fascinating, glamorous and chic. Focusing on the tropical elements of jungle attire, Ashkenazi delivered a well crafted, night-to-day ready-to-wear collection for those who like a modern edge to traditional design.
by Lily Rimmer
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