Capturing the romance of traditional Finnish dance pavilions nestled in the countryside, Spring merged ease with a hard-edged functionality.
FORGET ALL prior association between subtle aestheticism and heavy-minded, mid-to-late nineties antics. Rolf Ekroth, who brought forth his most Finnish outing to date, returned to Copenhagen Fashion Week with a collection that was an exercise in contemporary lightness.
Described as “playful stillness,” the lineup ran from casual looks (a life vest top worn over breezy floral prints) into the evening, where those rakish separates overlaid with details were unexpectedly dramatic.
This season, though, there’s more to the story. In collaboration with Kalevala—the renowned Finnish jewellery brand—Ekroth has cleverly translated his hand-painted rose motif into versatile earrings which, handcrafted from recycled silver, become pieces that continue the tradition of repurposing within the realm of jewellery.
The earrings feature a flexible clip, perfect for layering outfits, from tops to skirts to scarves. A showstopper in the collection is a dress embellished with hundreds of earrings. The rose motif, a staple in Ekroth’s collections, encourages seeing the world through rose-tinted glasses. Ekroth and Novita have come together once again to celebrate Finnish craftsmanship. With this collection, Ekroth wanted to explore novel textures and knitted forms.
The handmade lace knits are a tribute to Finnish heritage, with patterns that reflect a deep respect for tradition. Novita and Ekroth offer not just comprehensive yarn and instruction sets, but an invitation—to those who seek it—to replicate the knits from the runway and partake in the Lavatanssit. From icy country road rallies to F1 asphalt, Finland is known for being one of the fastest racing nations in the world.
Ekroth has partnered with Puma and their Speedcat shoes for this season, honouring this reputation. Drawing inspiration from the designer’s childhood memories of watching races, the collection features subtle hints and details related to rallying and motorcycling.
An eight-bit version of the rose motif, both hand-painted and pixelated, is also featured on a silk scarf.
Blazers and pantsuits aplenty will please high-profile women, and the forward-looking aficionados will eat up the coats and jackets in a wealth of shades. When he keeps it light, Ekroth shows he still has a modern touch that appeals. And works in perfect line against a backdrop of the wearisome tide of our times.
by Chidozie Obasi
All runway images by James Cochrane