AS I remove my robe and slip on my swimming shoes, Alex, Carlton Hotel St. Moritz’s outdoor butler, shatters the frozen surface of the lake. The temperature is well below zero, and the prospect of plunging into the icy water is far from inviting.
Yet, convinced of the health benefits, I steel myself to tick the activity off my list. I step into the lake, inhaling deeply and trying to admire the serene, frost-covered landscape of Saint Moritz – there isn’t a better place to try ice bathing than this. After a minute comes to an end, I wrap myself in warm towels and rush back toward the majestic Carlton Hotel, feeling accomplished yet very eager to escape the biting chill.
Carlton Saint Moritz Exterior
Few places embody the timeless glamour of a ski resort quite like Saint Moritz. This legendary destination pioneered winter tourism back in the 1860s, enticing visitors to its snowy haven. Perched at an impressive 1,800 meters above sea level, the town remains a gem for winter sports enthusiasts while offering an unmatched combination of scenic views and luxury – think private full-moon ski tours and high-end boutiques lining the town’s charming streets.
The journey begins with a picturesque two-hour train ride from Chur, winding through dramatic peaks, deep valleys, and historic UNESCO-listed bridges and tunnels, setting the stage for an unforgettable experience.
Grand Restaurant
Towering elegantly over the frozen lake, the Carlton St. Moritz feels both exclusive and intimate. With only 60 rooms – each generously sized and facing the south for breathtaking views of the Engadine Valley – the hotel offers a sense of privacy and familiarity. Inside, the interiors are grand and opulent.
The main hall, bathed in afternoon sunlight, features rich dark wood-panelled walls, vibrant furnishings, roaring fireplaces, and plush lounge sofas. It’s the perfect spot to enjoy a pre-dinner cocktail from the extensive menu, which includes show stopping creations like Carlton Royal Martini or Bird Cage, served theatrically under a dome of smoke.
Carlton Bar and Bel Etage
Junior Suite Interior
Dining at the hotel offers a range of exceptional options, from the two-Michelin-starred Da Vittorio to the more relaxed yet equally impressive Grand Restaurant. Here, the attentive team guides us through the Moving Mountains tasting menu, showcasing dishes crafted from local produce to ensure the finest flavours with highlights including beetroot tartare topped with goat cheese cream and a perfectly tender pigeon breast served with hazelnut and truffle topped celery.
Dinner at Grand Restaurant
Yet my favourite dining moment happens in the heated, repurposed ski gondolas set up for the guests in front of the hotel overlooking the lake – dipping warm bread and potatoes into perfectly creamy, cheesy truffle fondue. The simple, yet filling meal is capped off with a cloud-like meringue that melts in my mouth, leaving me with a sense of childlike warmth and joy.
Gondola Experience
While synonymous with winter sports, I quickly find out Saint Moritz it’s far from a one-note destination, ensuring non-skiers are equally entertained. From outdoor lunch which we eagerly take on the sun terrace enjoying a glass of champagne in the frosty sunshine, to town visits, where the streets are lined with luxury boutiques selling chic winter outfits and small grocery shops with chocolate and caviar on display.
Stepping out of the hotel for a day of adventure, we find a horse-drawn carriage waiting. Wrapped snugly in warm blankets, we glide through snow-covered forest trails, the soft jingle of bells adding to the magical atmosphere. As we arrive at the local ice rink, Alex is already waiting, skates in hand. With no barriers to lean on, skating feels daunting at first, but after a few shaky laps, we find our rhythm, building speed and confidence navigating our way across smooth ice.
Grand Restaurant
Afterwards we catch a train to a neighbouring village, where we have a chance to experience the tobogganing slope – which during summer months serves as a local road. As the evening sets the families and groups of friends drag their rented or personal sleigh, adjusting their goggles to prepare for fast-paced descent. The adrenaline of the speed is amazing and after 20 minutes of pure screaming and tight turns we all meet at the foot of the mountain to celebrate with a warm cup of Swiss hot chocolate.
Carlton Saint Moritz Outdoor Pool and Spa
After hours braving the sub-zero temperatures, there’s no greater indulgence than returning to the hotel’s spa. I spend a blissful half hour in one of beautiful wooden saunas to then relax into Carlton’s heated outdoor pool, watching the sun peacefully dipping behind the mountains. Submerged in warm water with the icy air brushing against my face, I feel extremely content – a perfect conclusion to a day of adventure and elegance in Saint Moritz.
by Olga Petrusewicz
To book visit Carlton Hotel St. Moritz is available from CHF 880 per room per night based on two adults sharing a deluxe room on a B&B basis, with 100 CHF food and beverage voucher per adult per day, butler service, minibar, service, VAT and complimentary access to the hotel’s spa.