MILAN, ITALY — As a brand becomes more established, recurring creative elements are known as house codes. This Tod’s Autumn/ Winter 2026 collection has several identifiable touches—suede, shearling, and leather all come to mind—that speak to a level of consistency that has been maintained over the last few years.
This season follows the classic winter ethos (clothes with a wear-anywhere appeal), without abandoning a slightly sporty feel. Offerings in smoked grey, white, blue, and brown are breezy and busy with small touches.
“We started from this concept of normality, obviously not from an abstract point of view, but from something very connected to reality and everyday life,” Matteo Tamburini told GLASS in a preview ahead of the presentation.
“The space in which we exhibit has the same approach from a design point of view: Villa Necchi is rich in details, materials, and it was conceived to be lived by a family, so we wanted to translate this concept into the collection.”
The process began with the search for materials, obviously, with the goal of creating garments that unfold when worn. “Materials are never too rigid and make a garment comfortable; both the internal details and the construction, so there’s a pleasure of discovering them when you actually start using them, and it becomes yours. And as for the ready-to-wear, we worked on flannels and on a tailoring approach. And then there’s a casual, sporty approach with a bit of American inspiration,” he explained.
Signatures encompass the iconic Winter Gommino, with suede versions enhanced with cashmere or shearling linings. What’s more, the Pashmy project pays homage to pashmina, evoking lightness. The material builds the house’s great classics, like the Coach Jacket (in warm tones) and the Castello Jacket.
Another sweet bite: The Red Dot sneaker, a shoe that combines craftsmanship with innovation, is designed to seamlessly transition between work and leisure, thanks to a light sole that provides a nice sense of warmth. All told, this wasn’t an outlandish collection, but Tamburini executed his conventional silhouettes with lots of flair and invention.
by Chidozie Obasi