MILAN, ITALY — This should be Simon Cracker’s season. After all, the Italian label made its name through ethically driven dressing, putting aficionados in up-cycled creations. But focusing merely on the sustainability theme – one that has become globally relevant – ended up jading him.
Instead, designer Simone Botte sent out a winsome, and for the most part heavily layered, assortment that established his Autumn/ Winter 2026 point of view through volume and form. The looks came short and long, rendered in dishevelled fabrics, delicate lace, abstract prints, and bold solids.
The fuss-free, elongated silhouette we’re seeing everywhere for Fall dominated, but there were also retro-style shifts and cute embellishments falling to the knee. Many necklines and waists were stretched or cinched to the max, too.
“The concept is very simple this season, as I’d like to go back to my roots and let my clothes do the talking,” Botte told GLASS in a preview ahead of his show. “This collection is titled Slow, and it epitomises a hymn to slowing down, enjoying things and valuing the hard work behind craft-making,” he added.
Building a lineup takes months of work: usually, a designer has six months to complete a collection, but Botte works for two years prior to creating a full one, as he must take waste materials into account and evaluate how to work them to great effect.
“This time, the colours I chose are black and red because they’re able to flourish in many shades. In fact, you will see an evolution into pastels and other hues across the forty-eight looks,” he reflects. Standouts include hoop-shaped chains, macro-chequered blazers, and crinkled fabrics used in sheer-feel shirts. Also breaking up the traditionalist repetitions seen this week were soft peplums—appearing in women’s blouses—and sweater necklines morphing into sleeves.
Does Botte, who created this collection after splitting with his creative partner, have what it takes to compete on a larger stage? Perhaps not yet, but he remains hopeful and believes in the unwavering power of collaboration. “I expect to start working with larger corporations, as I have already begun with Dr. Martens,” he said. “After four seasons, I would like to find more and more companies that are willing to focus on eco-sustainability and find solutions with me, as I strongly believe one can always discover the right format to move forward positively.”
by Chidozie Obasi