Heaven-scent – Glass interviews Guerlain master perfumer Thierry Wasser about career as one of the world’s leading noses
BORN in Lausanne, Lake Geneva, the young Thierry Wasser was captivated by the spectacular and diverse natural beauty of the wooded hills that surrounded him. Developing “a sense for the rhythm of nature and the seasons”, he amused himself by drying herbs and making teas and tinctures from the local plants he collected.
From the age of 16 to 20, Wasser pursued his passion further by studying for the Federal Diploma of Botany before being hired by the highly revered Givaudan Perfumery School in Geneva. He rose through the ranks to become a perfumer, then moved to Paris to work for Givaudan’s fine fragrances.
Guerlain master perfumer Thierry Wasser
In 1994, Wasser moved to New York City where he was employed by the Firmenich International Fine Fragrance Center, working on a wide portfolio of perfumes and being the nose behind fragrances for Lancôme and Christian Dior Parfums – in particular their huge hit Addict, which he created in 2002.
His expertise was further recognised when, in 2008 at the age of 46, he was appointed the house nose for legendary perfume dynasty Guerlain – the first non-family member to have this role. He worked alongside Jean-Paul Guerlain, great-great-grandson of the house’s founder.
Wasser is now the custodian of some of the greatest perfumes ever made – Mitsouko, Jicky, L’Heure Bleue, Shalamar … the evocative and redolent list goes on. He has also created his own breath-taking scents for the maison such as La Petite Robe Noire, Mon Guerlain and L’Homme Ideale.
What inspired you to become a perfumer?
As a boy, I was passionate about medicinal plants, which later brought me to complete a botanical training program. Around the same time, I read about a company in Geneva, named Givaudan, which was manufacturing fragrances. I wrote to them out of curiosity and they hired me to follow their perfumery school training program. And I have been a perfumer since then. So, I was definitely brought into the perfume world by coincidence, but in the end, it was indeed my calling.
Mitsouko
When you joined the House of Guerlain, you were worked alongside Jean-Paul Guerlain himself. What were the most important things you learnt from him?
I learned a lot working with Jean-Paul Guerlain, but I would say that the sourcing of raw materials and the fragrances’ manufacturing were the two most important things he taught me.
What is being the custodian of the legendary Guerlain fragrances such as Shalimar, Vol De Nuit and L’Heure Bleue like? Is it a big responsibility? If so, how do you cope with this?
I am coping very well as I have learnt from the master himself. Sourcing and manufacturing are the two fields essential to a true garden of the patrimony.
Can you share with Glass what your favourite notes or accords are?
They are many, but my favourites are floral and chypre accords – that is why I love Mitsouko.
Guerlain Shalimar
What is your starting point when you start creating a new fragrance? How long does it take you to create a new perfume from start to finish?
Starting points vary since designing a fragrance is like telling a story. Inspiration can come through trips, encounters and feelings. From there, it can take up to a couple of years to finish your story. I basically need a good 12 months to design a fragrance.
Can you tell us something about the any challenges you have faced in your career?
Indeed. You do not imagine how many times your stories have been rejected. I have created thousands of fragrances, not all finished though. But many of them are still sleeping in a drawer and that is a true challenge.
What have been the high points of your life as a master perfumer?
Being at the helm of the fragrance. Since I joined Guerlain in 2008, as a designer, everywhere I went, I have been welcomed with so much love and respect that it will always touch me to the core.
Iris Torrefie Guerlain Perfume Gold bottle
How do you predict the world of fragrance developing in the next decade? What are you excited about ?
I do not have a crystal ball for the next decade. I am excited about imagination as it is limitless.
How has the Covid19 crisis affected your work and life presently and how do you predict it will change the perfume world in the short and long term?
Indeed, the present situation makes us reflect on our own path and lifestyle. I think an era of naturality, lightless, cleanness will be ahead of us – like a light at the end of the tunnel.
By Caroline Simpson
Guerlain.com