THE Guerlain classic fragrance, Habit Rouge first debuted, sixty years ago in 1965 as eau de cologne. Created by Jean-Paul Guerlain, the famed perfumer and fourth generation member of the founding Guerlain family, Habit Rouge (referring to a red hunting jacket and inspired by showjumping, dressage and the races, Jean-Paul was a keen equestrian), is a timeless and elegant icon.
“A ride in the forest, the unsettling scents of damp undergrowth. The leather and tobacco trail of a horse rider in a red suit, the elegant, sensual tone of bold vanilla. From that moment on, I created something off the beaten track, Habit Rouge,” he said of his inspiration for Habit Rouge.
Habit Rouge Spirit Parfum, 100ml, £150
Regarded as one of the first amberesque wood fragrances for men (although it is great for everyone to wear), Habit Rouge embodies French style and elegance. Groundbreaking at its time, it’s still a much-worn fragrance.
Its original scent profile had aromatic and citric opening notes of lemon, orange, bergamot, tangerine, Palisander rosewood, basil and lime; with a heart of carnation, rose, jasmine, sandalwood, patchouli, cinnamon and white cedar extract; supported by a base of benzoin, vanilla, amber, oakmoss, labdanum and leather.
Launched to mark its 60th anniversary, the limited-edition Habit Rouge Spirit, is an opportunity to revisit and also celebrate the original with a modern take on this masterwork, which has been achieved by making it with an oak-barrel-ageing technique – which is usually used in whiskey and winemaking.
According to Guerlain, the oak-barrel ageing process allows the scent’s ingredients to evolve slowly, adding depth, complexity and woodier notes.
As Delphine Jelk, Guerlain Director of Perfume, explains, it is “An unexpected encounter between Habit Rouge Parfum and two oak barrels, each boasting different olfactory properties, linked to the age of their respective woods. Over time, the synergy of the wood and the formula’s ingredients gives rise to new fragrance facets. Painstaking work then follows to find the ideal balance: an exceptional fragrance blend that offers the iconic Habit Rouge a new signature.”
Habit Rouge Spirit is an impressive tribute to the original.
by Caroline Simpson
Habit Rouge Spirit Parfum, 100ml £150