EDELINE Lee has always liked to do things differently and this LFW show was no exception. Guests were expecting a fashion show but instead found themselves at a book launch and an intimate salon-style collection preview as in days of old.
Models sauntered slowly past editors, pausing and turning allowing the craftsmanship of the garments to be inspected and admired. It was a refreshing pause from today’s trend of models marching down the catwalk at break-neck speed.
Photograph: Alla Bogdanovic.
Upon arrival guests were given a beautiful, hand-bound book illustrating 15 years of the brand. Edeline herself gave a heartfelt speech saying, “My intention from the start was simple – to make beautiful clothes and to make women feel gorgeous, strong and in control.”
Her latest collection certainly achieves this. Edeline excels in making highly wearable yet distinctive items, feminine yet fearless. This season she and her team kept to a highly discipline palette of colour blocking in either navy, custard yellow, orange, white or gold. Simple cuts were elevate with pleats, bows or intricate, cage-like detailing with hoops to add structure. The beauty in Edeline’s work is the detail in simple tailoring done well. Serious cuts with playful but elegant embellishments.
Orange look. Photograph: Alexander Pierce Zetal. Long white gown. Photograph: Alla Bogdanovic.
Cream dress with big sleeves. Photograph Alla Bogdanovic. Blue look. Photograph: Alexander Pierce Zeta
The brand prides itself on its sustainability and close to home production. For example, for their signature Flou Bubble jacquard the process starts with recycled yarns dyed in Yorkshire and finished in Leicester. Every piece is finished by hand in the London studio, which Edeline feels gives every piece “a strong sense of authenticity and identity and maybe even a soul”.
Edeline Lee Coffee Table Book. Photograph: Hyunjin Kim
As the models wandered around the busy Brooklands Bar of The Peninsula Hotel the lookbook was being simultaneously shot next door – another example of the brand’s creativity and efficiency. It was a joy to see this proudly made-in-England brand celebrating its landmark anniversary and we hope to see many more to come.
by Nicola Kavanagh