It’s truly lovely when you happen to pick up the elated sound of cheers backstage once each model has done their turn on the catwalk and even before the models get in line for their final walkout. That happened at Issa this season, but it’s really no surprise, anyone in the know understands full well they have a good reason to celebrate good times.
It’s no question that Blue Farrier, the force behind the momentum that’s seen Issa on a roll since she debuted her first AW14 collection, should take all the credit she is getting for putting Issa on the fashion map. Commandeering the South Bank’s Queen Elizabeth Hall at LFW this season, Issa was set to make waves even before the show began thanks to a growing reputation for grade A brand evolution.
Proportionately, SS15 was all about movement and energy, something which Farrier captured superbly. The ultra high-quality workmanship was there, with consideration of trademark Issa elements such as wrapping, draping and unique prints, but continually we see a fluidity to that brand that’s increasing the stakes rapidly.
It’s also not hard to identify that Farrier is a woman who’s comfortable with dressing other women and giving femininity some spice through reference points ranging from Pop Art to an equestrian persuasion. Following on from the star-studded show, attracting the likes of Pixie Lott, Keeley Hawes and Olivia Palermo, we jumped at the chance to sneak backstage with the same enthusiasm as Farrier channelled into the collection and steal a few words with the talent that could outline Issa’s evolution.
How does it feel to be harnessing the power of Issa to such avail?
It’s exciting because all of the people around me that I’m working with are such great people and we try and push ideas each season, but keeping in mind the brand, so it’s about how far the evolution of Issa can go.
Something about Issa under your direction is the water-tight continuity, could you tell us more about the clear sense of direction behind this season’s collection?
We talk about it a lot, but really, we’re all doing things that we like and why not? For me, the Issa woman has a playfulness, a strength and movement , which is where the horse motif came from this season, because above all else the Issa woman also has a sartorial intuition. This season we’ve explored a lot of fabric techniques, notably, nothing is a print – everything is caught within the prints, so there is zero stitches, it’s a technique we developed to push fabrics together, ‘trapping’ the print. I think the Issa woman has an understanding of this.
You also introduced a pop art sensibility this season, how would you say that is applicable for Issa?
We always look to art, in some of our previous collections we were highly influenced by the work of Matisse. As a designer you often look to art and there is something about Pop Art, a confidence within the graphic iconography, so this season we spent a lot of time trying to capture that in a not so whimsical way.
So how would you define the new Issa?
That’s a good one. For me, she’s had a nod to the past, she’s worn Issa before and she is confident, she is flirty, but I don’t want the clothes to drown her, in effect drowning out those qualities. She’s lots of different things and it’s our job to give her a versatile wardrobe that she can take from day to evening.
by Liam Feltham
Images courtesy of Style.com
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