KNOWN for his avant-garde, fearless design approach, Luis De Javier’s collections are always strongly appraised, and the spring/summer 2024 season offering is no exception. Having graduated from Westminster University in 2018, the Spanish designer has continued to make waves within the industry.
Luis De Javier previously worked within the atelier of Dame Vivienne Westwood and was guided by the prestigious Gareth Pugh. After having gained enough experience, the young designer then launched his eponymous label in 2020 during London Fashion Week.
Now, the designer is renowned for his take on genderless fashion and has dressed figures such as Beyoncé, Rihanna, Cardi B, Kim Kardashian, Kylie Jenner, Janet Jackson and Naomi Campbell.
For SS24, Luis De Javier has centred the collection around a hardcore rave movement that emerged in Spain during the 90s – La Ruta del Bacalao. After decades of censorship and repression, the movement emerged as a way to embrace hedonism, individuality and freedom. However, this cultural moment was quickly shut down by an oppressive government.
Despite the decline of La Ruta del Bacalao, individuals – such as Luis De Javier- want to perpetuate the sentiments of the rave lifestyle. The designer has designed his collection with this movement in mind, imagining an alternate reality where La Ruta del Bacalao is still alive today.
“Fashion has always mirrored and explored socio-political issues. With this collection, we aim to reflect, question, and spark a dialogue on pressing matters, like the rise of a nationalist, far-right political party, that are affecting Spain and the world today,” explains the designer.
Showcasing a variety of bold latex looks, the designer’s inspiration is loud and clear. Juxtaposing form-fitting silhouettes with tailored sequinned counterparts, the collection provokes and inspires.
Luis De Javier has also effortlessly infused elements of workwear into the collection through the incorporation of utilitarian jackets and metallic hardware details.
Additionally, accessories were created in collaboration with Aslan World. Based in LA, Aslan world intertwines banality with dream and fantasy. Having previously worked with Donatella Versace, Maluma, Kali Uchis and Avril Lavigne the brand is renowned for its maximalist accessories.
For SS24, the designer has also decided to partner with emcee, a social commerce platform, to build further connections with customers and brands alike. “I’m excited to be working together with emcee, as their innovative retail platform is leading the way for designers and creators to collaborate and connect,” said Luis De Javier.
The SS24 collection demonstrates the designer’s ability to bring about cultural change with the power of fashion. The collection celebrates fearlessness, queerness and the importance of community in a time of uncertainty and unease.
by Sophie Richardson