MFW AW14: Salvatore Ferragamo

Massimiliano Giornetti, the creative director of the Italian institution in question, each season faces the task of guiding the style development of Salvatore Ferragamo and the time-honoured brand’s numerous product categories, and for AW14, he delighted audiences this season with the kind of show that accentuates Ferragamo’s expert workmanship.

Drawing attention this, Giornetti was later quoted, claiming, “The artisanal workmanship behind the collection is the focus”, as clear as crystal when considering the sweeping brushed plaid cloth that graced the striking clinical catwalk yesterday, impeccable, fundamentally classic, yet exploiting some light experiments with proportion, transforming the body like no other.

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Beyond the finesse of some outstanding shapes, on the surface, the designer exercised an enterprising streak by exploring elements of fabric technology, atypically probing Jacquard fabric, by needle-punching it with fine thread for a sketchy linear effect, or streaking leather with tinselly gold dust, wrapping it around the body, sculpting a resplendently enveloped demigoddess. Metallic dresses also imbued with glitzy intricacies which interplayed with the various luxuriant furs that clinched the success of most of the looks, from beaver, to astrakhan and fox, creating, as Giornetti quipped, “a fantastic animal”.

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The primitive proclivity persisted, with painterly animal print accents, trimming fuzzy gilets and capes, and sublime crocodile-skin knee-length coats, that could equally double as a dress. The Florentine craftsmanship was evident this season, and for a house that has always aimed to acquaint their clientele with requisite mastery in every sense, the future is bright, as usual.

by Liam Feltham

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