Matteo Tamburini again diverts with a gently poised collection building on his exquisite minimalism.
THE ITALIAN house of Tod’s has always subscribed to a breezy, feminine joie de vivre, and autumn-winter 2025 stepped into similar territory by providing a palate-cleansing addendum to the label’s vernacular.
Each piece in the expansive collection has a subtle evocative touch, like an oversized double-layer cashmere coat or a pea coat which features details in leather, stretching all the way to trenches and bombers made of Pashmy suede or nappa.
“Starting from this idea of resilience and rebirth from our roots, we wanted to work on the collection, which is the type of exercise that we have already set up since I came to Tod’s,” offered Matteo Tamburini in a press conference ahead of the show.
“So it’s all about keeping in mind what our DNA is and the starting points, but at the same time trying to renew these codes.” The designer’s instincts were on point—fuss-free volumes and elevated layering have been majorly turning up on haute runways like Gucci and Fendi, too.
These touchpoints were right for Tamburini, who prefers to freshen up his fabric and finishes each season instead of trendy silhouettes or trendy new iterations. Soft, silky textures juxtaposed with sturdier textiles felt particularly novel—on a brown floating dress, it would be perfect for an autumn wedding. The multi-layered dressing is the house’s fastest growing category–which started out stiff and raw before loosening down to worn-in perfection—and the gommino in Python had a similar see-to-buy-now appeal.
“All the images we put of women this season are much more natural, a little more in your face, and it was a push we wanted to give to the collection,” concluded Tamburini. “Of course, sophistication and all the rest will always be there, but we wanted something a little less refined […] even the girls are a little more grounded.”
The attention to detail paid off particularly well in this outing. Even better? Clothes gained character and newfound ease, something that can be hard to find across the realm of designers wrestling to find their feet within the lanes of contemporary fashion communication.
by Chidozie Obasi