FLORENCE, ITALY — After graduating from London’s Central Saint Martins in 2013, ShinyaKozuka earned his stripes as a designer trafficking in pretty elemental slouchy separates—jeans, tees, throw-on knits. Judging by his latest collection showcased as part of Pitti’s latest edition, that reputation is in dire need of a refresh. For one thing, there are numerous denim and lounge pants in his Fall outing that shape the majority of the lineup.
ShinyaKozuka AW26
ShinyaKozuka AW26
For another, the designer’s take on what forms ease in fashion seems to have grown up alongside his customers. There could be a further push, and this addendum could add a more sophisticated design vocabulary to his work. The roomy sweats owe a debt to the winter days he used to experience in Japan, which mature in cosy knits that come in neutral shades.
There’s a nice textural quality to these clothes—a rough touch to them and a weather-beaten feel to the offerings—that the designer has juxtaposed with his typically volumised casual tailoring.
ShinyaKozuka AW26
ShinyaKozuka AW26
Elsewhere, when one considers the collars of jackets, there’s a subtle detail that mimics the quality of outdoor garb. The designer has clearly spent time fussing with proportions here, but the clothes don’t look fussy, and perhaps that’s their strength. As a menswear creative, he’s well attuned to male vernacular, which mirrors a relaxed take throughout.
Soshiotsuki AW26
Soshiotsuki AW26
Soshiotsuki AW26
On a similar note, Soshiotsuki’s philosophy is rooted in the manipulation of tailoring details and the relationship they create with the body, presenting an aesthetic that peels back all manner of excessive decoration and overt emotion, championing minimalism.
Plus, silhouettes remain largely unchanged regardless of culture or nationality, while peak lapels and shirt collar tips are given an artificial curl through pattern engineering and ironwork, introducing a subtle sense of movement into otherwise static structures. All in all, this outing does not exaggerate tailoring as something exceptional, but instead quietly manipulates, observes, and updates it for the future.
by Chidozie Obasi