STEPPING into Legado feels less like entering a restaurant and more like being transported through Spain, in a way feels intimate and personal. You enter through a vibrant taberna before the room opens up into a soaring dining space, where wood-fired ovens for their famous Roast Suckling Pig and the bustling theatre kitchen glow at the heart of the restaurant.
The design pulls from different regions of Spain that have been a part of Nieves’ life, from Andalusia to Valencia, Catalonia to Castile y León and the Basque Country, yet it feels completely at home in London.
Dining room
Created by Chef Nieves Barragán Mohacho, Michelin-starred chef behind Sabor, is Legado, meaning legacy, and it’s exactly that. The Spanish opening in Shoreditch is a culmination of Nieves Basque childhood and lived experiences, and her vision of ingredients; their provenance, history, and the legacy of those who produce them. Different areas of Spain, all of which have been a part of Nieves’
Chef Nieves Barragán Mohacho
Our meal started how, if I had my way every meal would, with 3-sip serves. Served in delicate bespoke ceramic cups, these small chilled drinks are designed to gently awaken the palate. The Melon, Grape and Tequila is fresh and lightly perfumed, while a non-alcoholic pomegranate and oolong tea serve felt quietly complex.
Legado Dishes
The food here leans into lesser-known Spanish dishes and traditions, always led by ingredient and technique and we couldn’t wait to get started. Quisquillas de Cádiz arrived early: naturally sweet blue-belly prawns are served almost entirely raw, with only the heads fried until crisp. Dressed lightly with citrus, soy and sesame, they are delicate yet deeply flavourful, and eating the warm, crunchy heads feels like being let in on a local secret.
Quisquillas de Cádiz
Seafood continued to shine. Galician octopus, tender and smoky from the josper grill, came with garlic cream, smoked paprika and caperberries, it’s a dish that nods to Galicia’s seafaring traditions while feeling thoroughly contemporary. The stuffed squid dish, filled with prawn and girolles, sits in a rich ink sauce that leans into the more autumnal side of Spanish cooking.
Grilled Octopus, Smoked Paprika
Mains were unapologetically generous. Orzo with crisp fried lamb sweetbreads and lovage was rich and comforting, while Iberian pork ribs and almendritas of oxtail showcased Legado’s whole-animal ethos. Sides of tomato with bottarga and grilled artichoke with almond sauce accompanied the mains beautifully, adding brightness and texture.
Prawn & Girolle Stuffed Squid, Ink Sauce
But the standout, unquestionably, was the Arroz Campero with Lagarto ibérico from Señorío de Montanera. Made with Calasparra rice simmered in a savoury stock of mushroom and kombu, it was deeply umami, perfectly balanced by the sweetness of the pork. A dish that lingers long after the table is cleared.
Desserts close the meal with saffron ice cream, white chocolate mousse laced with Arbequina olive oil, a combination that surprises my taste buds in a good way, and the classic churros served with dulce de leche.
Arroz Campero with Lagarto
Legado doesn’t chase trends. Instead it tells a story, one of heritage, authenticity and deep respect for ingredients. It’s a restaurant that invites you to slow down, share more, and taste Spain through the lens of a chef who has lived every chapter of it.
Since my visit, Legado has been awarded a Michelin star just seven months after opening. It comes as no surprise, and is a thoroughly deserved accolade.
by Vivian Hui
Address: 1C Montacute Yards, London E1 6HU
Legado opening times:
Tuesday – Saturday: 12.00 – 14.30, 17.30 – 22.30
Taberna: Tuesday – Saturday: 12.00 – 22.30
For more details and reservations, visit the website here.