AN expression of teddy-boy chic in a gender-fluid fairytale, Charles Jeffrey retells folklore in fashion with his AW20 collection. During a time when designers are encouraged to push boundaries in fashion, Jeffrey proves his rightful place as the ultimate experimentalist and avant-garde designer — all while maintaining the consistent flare and technique which both amazes and perplexes.
If there were ever a time to rewrite the narrative of folk tales, it’s today, with an increasing modern obsession in fashion for subverting tradition and reinventing the old and tired. Jeffrey balances this perfectly with his own unique style, incorporating key trends like tailoring while maintaining a feeling of the historical, and even is able to hold on to a level of wearability in some of the pieces. Draped and spliced fabrics take centre-stage, as well as Jeffrey’s masterful use of ruching and tailoring. Always interested in the fine details, embellishment, hardware, and cut-outs are not looked over.
Accessories also made a statement in the collection. Headbands, headdresses and berets all made an appearance, cleverly blending the historical nuances of the collection from different centuries. Jeffrey took influence from his Scottish heritage for the collection, so pointed black caps (along with kilts) demonstrate the designer’s wide pool of influences, while remaining closely linked to the imagery and clothes we associate with folklore and fairytale from around the globe.
While designers often look to the future or the past for influence, Jeffrey isn’t afraid to delve into the realm of the imaginary.
by Emma Hart