Pointing to notions of ‘modularity,’ the Berner Kühl man draws on graphic volumes of past seasons for the modern day. It served an important purpose, but simply lacked vision.
Berner Kühl has finally graduated from his obsession with ripping apart big men’s suiting and seeing how the staples fit when reassembled on young chaps. For Spring, his collection was more about a modular take on construction than deconstruction, as well as a common theme that melded with his interest in breezy/skin-tight contrasts of sorts.
“Exploring the same style in different materials and offering various styles in the same fabrication, we emphasize our commitment to ultimate materiality,” Kühl noted. Such creative lexicon translated into trench coats and multi-pocketed shirting (with a vaguely Prada-esque feel): ultrahigh-waisted pants and knickers, patent leather separates, and romantically-cut crisp wool were all in the mix.
Kühl is moving toward a more saleable, less artsy proposition for himself. “We challenge the conventional approach to consumption by reimagining the same shape or item from multiple perspectives,” he said. “Can we repurpose existing materials into new, unexplored possibilities? Our answer is a resounding yes. Consequently, the new collection is about discovery: Material and shape take the spotlight, showcasing the highest level of fabric craftsmanship in diverse applications.”
The designer’s own strengths come out in his ability to cut a great pant and a fascinating, well-fitting jacket, as well as in knowing how to soften them with a vintage look or technically-shaped lapel. Some of the less complicated menswear excavations, like the beige waist-length jackets washed wrinkled, looked appealing: other experiments, like the double-breasted men’s coats in muted tones, don’t really seem to be going anywhere—at least, nowhere that his counterparts’ didn’t already take them.
That said, Kühl is a focused and sensitive designer who is slowly building a retail-driven line, and—as a young man—it’s good to see him grow. It takes time to nurture talent, and some never make it; so here’s hoping that Kühl tries to become a fully-fledged, all-round creative contender.
by Chidozie Obasi
Images by James Cochrane