The Nottingham-born, London-hailed creative weaves escapist threads that marry emotion and intent.
IN A world where systemic downturns are increasingly commonplace, searching for a symbol of strength is no mean feat—one misstep and you suddenly bask in the perpetual land of blunders, yet when you seek support the creative match gets tougher.
The most noteworthy element that characterises the newer generations is, however, a soul-driven seam that’s able to nourish ideas and thoughts far from all manner of traditional expectations, where risks are taken in the name of change. But there’s more to the story.
Photographer: Jake Spencer
What’s inspiring to see from British Jamaican designer Cameron Paul Jukes is a vision of how clean, outlandish cuts and volumes can contribute to a modern wardrobe. Born in Nottingham and studying at London’s Central Saint Martins, he seems to have both lightened up and learned a lot about craft, range and polish. “My great grandmother was a dressmaker, so I’ve had an interest in fashion from a pretty young age,” Jukes tells GLASS.
Photographer: Jake Spencer
“I love the transformative power of clothes; growing up with barely any money, your staples can transport you to be whoever you want to be despite your provenance,” he continues. Like many of his peers who are part of the general conversation about hardships and saturation amid the fashion industry constantly rocked by upheaval, he’s curious and passionate about finding his footing in the field he much cherishes.
“I think I’m still on my journey of self realisation and aesthetic research,” he admits, explaining how “I feel my new graduate collection is a snippet into what’s to come and what it will progress to be.” His latest collection—which he describes as ‘the woman you couldn’t or wouldn’t dare to talk to if you saw her’—imbues a wealth of technicalities that act as catalysts for his design practice.
Photographer: Jake Spencer
“I think what inspires me is very varied,” he says, adding that, “for example ideas and conclusions come from purely the pattern cutting aspect; perhaps I might reverse a collar or re-arrange seams lines to give me a new outcome. Whereas perhaps I’ve read something that’s given me a new perspective or outlook.” Jukes is someone who designs from his inmost feelings and emotion. “The cut of a bias silk chiffon dress or the rigidness of a shoulder pad in a tailored suit to me says something different about the women wearing it,” he says.
Jukes enjoys dressing people in the industry at the moment, but he’s ready for his next challenge. “I can only feel sane when I’m working to be honest,” he says, going on to recount his design ethos. “My ethos is that circumstance doesn’t have to hinder my goal, as I come from nothing,” Jukes admits.
Cameron Paul Jukes Graduate Collection
Cameron Paul Jukes Graduate Collection
The harsh reality of creatives having to work for years on precarious terms to achieve their goal is no new story, which exacerbates the chances of growth and progress in an industry fueled by dreams that, in turn, lack pragmatic recognition. “I was sofa surfing for the second half of my final year, and still I made it work with what I had,” Jukes admits. “I just want to be someone that others can look up to and find the courage to chase their dreams, because if we (young people) don’t do it, who will?”
With sheer honesty and no peacocking braggadocio on display, Jukes speaks openly about what scares him of the industry. “I want to be fearless as a new designer,” he says, “ but with no finances it’s difficult to produce at the rate that fashion wants designers to produce in this day and age. I think for real people, this industry is incredibly difficult to break and to find your way in if you don’t come from money”.
Cameron Paul Jukes Graduate Collection
Cameron Paul Jukes Graduate Collection
Speaking of challenges, his emotionally-led vision is moving. “I think the hardest challenge as a new designer is the will to keep going, because I think the industry doesn’t appreciate how much goes into just creating one garment as an independent creative,” he says. “The nature of the industry now is quantity and volume – yet this, with little-to-no financial help, makes it incredibly wearisome to keep up with the current standards,” he explains.
Cameron Paul Jukes Graduate Collection
Cameron Paul Jukes Graduate Collection
Cameron Paul Jukes Graduate Collection
“Furthermore the mental strain the system has on us breeds a whole array of issues that you could write forever on; all in all, I think as young people we just have to define our own timeframe and stick to it for the long haul.” And just like Jues, I very much think the same.
by Chidozie Obasi
Portraits of Cameron Paul Jukes
Photographer: Jake Spencer
Stylist: Chidozie Obasi
Styling assistant: Carmel Anderson
Look 1: DIOR Men
Look 2: Gucci
Look 3: Ahluwalia