THEY say that the frankincense delivered to Jesus by the Three Wise Kings came from Oman, a lesser known Gulf states that today is fast emerging as a new star of the east thanks to its spectacular landscapes and unhurried ambiance.
Al Husn infinity pool through courtyard arch
Despite undergoing rapid modernisation in recent years, Oman proudly wears its frankincense heritage on its sleeve, as was evident when I stepped into the marble splendour of the Shangri-La Al Husn, Muscat to be greeted by its bewitching aroma wafting out of a burner.
The carved teak doors, Moorish arches and handwoven carpets were another nod to tradition, and there was also an elaborate water feature suggesting a desert oasis. The effect was one of simple elegance. The pleasing design theme was replicated in the hotel’s 180 rooms and suites, together with opulent bed and bath furnishings and spacious balconies looking out to sea.
Deluxe Room with sea view
Located on the Gulf of Oman and a 45 minute drive from Muscat airport, the adults-only Al Husn is the premiere hotel within the Barr Al Jissah resort, sitting next to the family-friendly Al Waha and Al Bandar. It has all the amenities that one would expect of a luxury establishment with guests also having the opportunity to choose from a superb international range of 14 restaurants and bars across the complex.
It was nudging October, a cooler time of the year, yet the temperature was either hot or very hot. Eschewing the hotel’s infinity pool, I headed straight for the beach to cool off. But there were other delights ahead – a boat trip out to sea where we encountered a school of bottlenose dolphins, and swimming with green turtles while snorkelling in a coral reef. Uniquely, the resort is home to an important nesting site and employs a turtle ranger to monitor it, so the creatures are in abundance.
Al Husns Sultanah Restaurant
Oman is vast country of mostly desert and highlands and the Shangri-La Al Husn offers bespoke services to introduce visitors to its glories. Start by taking a guided tour of the capital, Muscat, a city that has shunned the skyscrapers of its more showy neighbours in order to preserve the beauty of the surrounding Al Hajar mountains. The plethora of white and cream architectural gems, among them the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, looked all the more stunning against the jagged brown peaks. Another face of the city was the charming harbourside Muttrah Souk where local wares like cashmere shawls and heady oud perfumes lined the stalls.
Two and half hours away from the city we were on the edge of wilderness, having driven through mountains that nature had sculpted into fantastical shapes and colours. Along the way we took a refreshing dip in the deep, emerald pools of Wadi Bani Khalid, a popular attraction lined by ethereal white rocks. Our final destination was the Wahiba Desert for a night under the stars at a deluxe camping site run by the Canvas Club, making the last leg of our journey by camel.
Transport awaits courtesy of the Canvas Club
I stood there gazing at the animal and wondering how I was going to be able to jump up on to its back. Then I clocked – you get on when it sits down, then hang on for your dear life when it gets up. But any uneasiness soon disappeared as our camel caravan lopped steadily over the seemingly unending sand dunes. After a delicious meal cooked over a fire, we settled down for the night, surrounded by a most blissful silence
Back at the hotel, we gathered in the Frankincense Garden, a nursery of 21 trees, for an impassioned talk by Khalid Al Amri on the importance of frankincense – luban in Arabic – in Omani culture before taking part in a cookery class showcasing its use in local cuisine. Once worth more than gold, the highest quality frankincense still comes from Oman, so a visit to the Luban Spa, which uses it in its massage lotions, seemed the best way to end my amazing stay.
by Angela Cobbinah
A Shangri-La Al Husn Deluxe Room costs £243 per night for two adults inclusive of breakfast and taxes, daily replenished mini bar, afternoon tea and pre-dinner cocktails
shangri-la.com/muscat/alhusnresortandspa/