PRESENTED by Fashion Scout as the Merit Award Winner, designer Eddie Buckman and her urban-luxe brand Fortie Label radiated victory as her looks graced the runway. Selected from hundreds of applicants Fortie Label caught the panel’s eye due to the considered textile techniques, the strong cultural inspiration, and the fierce look and feel.
Taking our seats opposite Jorja Smith who, alongside other music icons such as Rihanna, has been a key supporter of the brand gave us the feeling that this was the designer to watch in 2018. The AW18 season drew inspiration from Forty Thieves, an all-female London crime syndicate who are infamous for their antics in the 19th/20th century. A vintage and girl-power theme came across.
Combining this source of inspiration with ‘90s Hip-Hop references the Fortie show further played on ideas of female empowerment. Opening the show with a male model in a pimp-like faux=fur coat sprawling fake dollars across the runway who was then followed by a string of women was a questionable choice. But it’s questions like this one that Buckman wants to raise in her collection. Her sophisticated approach towards niche themes within female culture and history feeds into each collection and challenges misconceptions of sexuality and female empowerment.
The collection was a span of warm hues, oranges and caramel tones mixed with blue denim and brown faux fur. Corsetted tops, sheer fabric tracksuits, cargo pants and cropped jackets and hoodies combined elements of sports-luxe feminine glamour and beachwear. Buckman has successfully balanced a fierce attitude with a delicate sensitivity in her Aw18 collection. The show was playful and engaging and as the model’s danced their way down the runway to the closing track of My Neck My Back by Khia we couldn’t help but feel excited about what the future holds for Eddie Buckman, her Fortie Label, and for female empowerment across the world.
by Lily Rimmer
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