SET inside the Tate Modern, the Ports 1961 collection offered a fresh perspective for SS20, headed by fashion and visual directors Karl Templer and Fabien Baron, they showcased their first collection since being appointed in August. For Templer, inspiration behind the collection focused on redesigning the basics of womenswear – references of classical dressing and traditional tailoring blended with unconventional shapes and styles.
Silk maxi-dresses were embellished colourful graphic prints and grids on one half while pleats started on the second half. Traditional two piece-suits were detailed with layers of contrasting patterns and hemming, giving us an optical illusion if the suits were actually jumpsuits. Baggy, flowing shirts and skirts revealed netting underneath, while two-piece combos were patch-worked with thin stripes of red and orange fabric. Block colours contrasted with Japanese-inspired knits and patterns of traditional motifs such as koi fish and cherry blossoms.
The maximisation of details and texture were enhanced by the accessories, particularly the mismatched statement earrings. Embellished with pendants, hooks and chains, as the models walked the sound of the jewellery chiming could be heard over the show’s instrumental soundtrack.
Templar and Baron’s continuous references to history, the arts and culture perfectly played out in their choice of venue, as an outcome, the playful themes behind the visual direction promises a more individual and colourful approach to the brand.
by Mirabella Shahidullah