IN A letter to a lost lover, Oscar Ouyang pours his heart out. Ouyang reminisces about a fantastical night of romance and shape-shifting for his Spring/ Summer 2026 show titled Don’t Shoot the Messenger.
On a catwalk made of love notes and forgotten letters, the brand presented 20 looks that told the tale of a night-time ball and a lover now lost. The Central Saint Martins MA graduate utilied silk and linen as he knits and stitches each stage of the night.
Each look conveyed unspoken words and hidden meanings, a sense of freedom being released from the details of the garments. Structured and oversized knitted shirts were paired with fitted golden shimmery micro-shorts that bore bare legs. Speaking of shorts, tiny chinos were spotted on the models, with tongue-in-cheek keyholes embroidered on the fly. And I fear that Ouyang, with a subtle Paul Mescal–length crop that reveals the thighs, has made the chino quite fun.
Feathers were constant adornments throughout the show. Placed on beanies, hats, and collars, they are even detailed onto the knuckles of fingerless gloves. More literal interpretations of birds were shown, as pairs of wings grew on the backs of jersey t-shirts, and strings hung from their hems, creating a floating effect. A standout detail was the Converse shoes. Acting as modern reiterations of talaria, the high-tops were decorated with feathers in black and white, in both short and long styles. These feathered trainers refresh the standard high-top silhouette and breathe natural glamour into wearable designs.
Knitwear is the foundation of Ouyang’s designs. Weaved into the collection, traditional cable-knit jumpers and yarns are spun into polo shirts and hooded vests. Hand crochet is used throughout to create structured masculine silhouettes. Many knits were presented alongside traditional winter flannel shirts, with some being worn buttoned up. Others, like an earthy yellow flannel, were tied around the waist to be layered over knit trousers for a sense of casual coziness in the upcoming winter.
As the music picked up, the ball comes to an end, not with the ring of the clock reaching the midnight hour, but with the rumblings of a cannon. Deeper bangs and thuds give way to distressed wool that has been splattered with mud as they run from the dance. Lightweight jackets and mid-length white trench coats are buttoned at the collar.
Rectangular shoulders are appliqued in contour feathers as they grow wings, ready to fly away and escape the night. As the music comes to a sudden halt, there is stillness. Ouyang longs for his love, now gone from London as the buttonholes become poison weeds.
Within this show, Ouyang presents a story of longing and freedom. They are very much a designer who focuses on the details and craftsmanship, and he has delighted with a whimsical and fresh tale.
by Ellis Dowle