MFW AW17: Moschino

IT seems Jeremy Scott is scraping the recycling bin to find new themes if his latest collection for Moschino is anything to go by. Cardboard was reinterpreted by Scott in numerous distinctly un-boring designs that used the rawest materials to make a strong statement about upcycling. Going as literally far as using crinkled packing materials held together by duct tape and then torn up and pasted on bedroom wall editorials from glossy magazines as for his next trompe l’oeil effect. At least he knows his most receptive audience, the tweenager who is 15 going on 21, though perhaps unable to afford Moschino at present she can still regram it for her hordes of followers.

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The buff tone of cardboard made for some nice ironically formal-looking skirt suits and dresses but any casual calm of the cardboard designs was soon obliterated by the magazine collage that took over every design from look 23 onwards. In a kind of comment on our consumer culture there was giant plastic bag mini-dresses, bubble-wrap couture and gowns that looked as if a trash bag had burst.

Like the message being trumpeted by one-time Jeremy Scot muse Katy Perry in new song Chained to the Rhythm, while catchy and appealing, it felt a little highfalutin and hollow in places. Following upcycled and indeed really creative garments with fox fur coats will do that to a collection.

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The trash chic may make more eyes roll than ever before, and that’s lots of eyes previously rolled, but it’s clear that Scott is not yet tiring of his position at the only house he could truly contribute too without disgracing it’s DNA.

by Livia Feltham

Images courtesy of Moschino

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