For SS25, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons turned to a ‘poised dynamism’ to sell a perfectly good slew of essentials, streamlining things for the modern man while balancing a polarised tension.
THE PRECISION with which Prada cuts clothes—to say nothing of the efficiency of the house’s shows—came as a welcome tonic amid Spring’s endless directions (grunge! workwear! maximalism!) and elaborate setups.
Backstage, Prada and Simons described the starting point of this collection as an instinctive phenomenon, nodding to ideas passing by the mind in specific moments that turn the familiar into the most unexpected avenues of creativity. “This collection was really born by instinctive suggestion, from a spontaneous dialogue,” noted the designers.
“It relied on things passing by the mind in a particular moment, put together in unexpected ways, which is the way we worked; we wanted to make this about what you want to wear now, because for us the essence, the truth, is simply that.”
Prada and Simons did a deft job of charting this season’s trends, too, starting with ease and continuing with subtle yet punchy colours including turquoise, mushroom and smoke. These came together beautifully in a grey (stealth wealth’s colour of the season), clean-cut trousers teamed with a deep V-neck.
Embellishments included aviator glasses and all-over zips stitched onto pants; body-hugging knits looked lighter than air, and fuss-free cardigans had enough heft to stand in for a jacket.
Pieces stolen from a father or mother are worn differently on the body. Exaggerated proportions, long or cropped, are combined with a sartorial juxtaposition of sorts: sweaters are transposed to a new context, paying home to the spirit of freedom, youthful optimism and energy. Fabrications were, as always, pushed to the hilt: viewed from afar, pieces can pretend to be simple and details may seem simplistic and somewhat loony, but up close, physically, these staples do transform.
Clothes with wired details animate collars and hems with an unreal dynamism as if they become alive. Purposefully creased, patinated, aged, garments bear traces of time with imperfections that symbolise just another sign of living and of reality. “We wanted to create clothes that have lived a life, that are alive in themselves,” noted the designers.
“There is a sense of spontaneity and optimism to these clothes, as they reflect instinctive but deliberate choices, freedom.”
These are pieces that nonfashion-fashion aficionados are going to feel mighty pleased to have bagged—now, next year, forever. As for the concept, the freedom to which these essentials bask and their to-the-point essence epitomises a strong testament that nods the power of restraint.
And the fact that Prada can attract all kinds of customers (all of whom are fleeing from excess, yet willing to invest) explains the skill of the company’s bottom line.
by Chidozie Obasi