STRUCTURE defined Dion Lee’s AW19 collection at New York Fashion Week. This season, the brand overhauled formalism to its core, using corsets as its main driver. Structure and silhouettes were utilised and mused over by the Australian designer to contour and accentuate femininity, celebrating the true duality of women: romantic yet fierce.
The corsets featured square necklines; some were vulnerable and lingerie-like with lace peeking out, others worn with long opera gloves to add some drama and flair, whilst others paid homage to his previous collection with their blazer and shirting splicing. Continuing from this structural paean, the arches and boning of the corsets were replicated in sheer bralettes under super-cropped knits.
Fluid flowing dresses, chiffon poet shirts with lace-up fronts, and a mixture of silks, vinyls and knits juxtaposed the rigidity of the corsets. Contrasting the primness and perfection of the corsetry were officewear elements: low-cut slacks and carpenter trousers which were delightfully comfortable and effortless sashayed down the runway.
Subverting our traditional views of corsets, Dion Lee conspires to make a collection that defines contemporary chic. His use of cut-outs adds definition and a hint of sultriness, emphasising forgotten forms and figures. The use of indistinct and discreet jewellery kept our eyes fixated on the technicality and beauty of the clothes.
The colours kept to the muted and understated nature of the fashion house with its use of navy, blacks, whites, flesh and earth tones, but were injected with a burst of lemon and chartreuse. A perfect matching to the subtle genius of Lee.
There was a certain lyricism and simplicity to the collection, highlighting the designer’s magic: Dion Lee showed us what he does best and that is celebrate women and femininity through his enchanting creations. Set to Vivaldi’s Spring, Lee returns with a breath of fresh air.
by Robyn Ngan
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