PAYING homage to Ukraine’s reputation as one of the largest grain-producing countries, Bevza unveiled its autumn-winter 2024 collection at the Ukrainian Institute of America.
Tapping into historical symbolism and cultural ties, grain is used as a motif to symbolise Ukraine’s wealth and resilience throughout the ensemble. For the new season, the brand aims to spotlight such values while also demonstrating the importance of tradition and heritage.
Having previously unveiled a collection two years ago at the Ukrainian Institute of America, Svitlana Bevza opted to return to the venue for AW24.
Drawing parallels between today and the start of the full-scale invasion, the brand aims to uplift and support Ukraine. Founded by Ukrainian immigrant William Dzus in 1948, the venue was created to stop the Soviets’ eradication of his culture. Today, the space continues to act as a beacon of hope and belief for those affected by the ongoing turmoil.
Echoing the timeless significance of the location, the clothes have been constructed with longevity in mind. Transcending mere style, Bevza’s atelier has been working effortlessly to produce elegant, high-quality pieces. And it shows.
From evening wear to everyday attire, the clothes are rooted in stability and boxy silhouettes. For example, apron dresses have been constructed using eco-leather, costume fabrics and viscose, which demonstrate the designer’s versatility and prowess. Utilising the cut from a real apron, the brand subtly alludes to the metaphor of ‘We cook bread’ whilst also bringing the attention back to the image of grain.
The designer continues to refer back to previous collections – such as spring-summer 2024 – to display the evolution and maturity of the brand. As a result, boxy silhouettes have become somewhat synonymous with the eponymous label.
Now, more structural silhouettes make an appearance with the arrival of A-shape cut coats – inspired by the Kozukh, a traditional 19th-century Ukrainian coat. The Tisto vest – the Ukrainian name for dough – is hand-knitted to mirror the texture of raw bread and features similar strong lines and volume.
It comes as no surprise that the brand has also carefully intertwined the use of grain into its latest jewellery and bag pieces. Through quiet refinement and delicate hardware detailing, the accessories complete the seasonal offering.
By protecting and promoting Ukrainian culture, fostering artistic endeavours and offering insight into Ukraine’s history, Bevza continues to use her expertise to provide a platform and voice for those seldom heard.
by Sophie Richardson